tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19160477231042425282024-02-24T12:46:57.598-08:00The forbidden railway: Vienna - Pyongyang 윈 - 모스크바 - 두만강 - 평양Our train trip via Russia to North Korea - using an officially closed for foreigners route inside the "Hermit Kingdom"Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-68220852914482422422013-03-09T03:48:00.001-08:002020-10-04T12:23:10.763-07:0036 hours in North Korea without a guide...<br />
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<script src="http://connect.facebook.net/en_US/all.js#appId=104968559607697&xfbml=1"></script><fb:like font="" href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/" send="true" show_faces="true" width="450"></fb:like><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exYySIeHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/YySIeH.jpg" /></a><br />
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Our train trip via Russia to North Korea - using an officially closed for foreigners route inside the "Hermit Kingdom"....<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: red;"><br />NEW:<br /><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br />
A 26min film about the trip - with photos, videos and music:
</span></span></span><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: 100%;">
<br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1mzXFAzUjQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1mzXFAzUjQ</a><br />
</span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: 100%;"></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /></span></span></span><span style="color: red; font-size: 100%; font-weight: bold;">
kmz-file with our route for GoogleEarth</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">:</span></span><span style="color: red;"><i><span style="color: black;"> </span></i>Open this file with GoogleEarth and you see the whole route from Vienna to Pyongyang and placemarks (with information about time and total distance from Vienna) at places to which I refer in the travelogue. Also most of our photos from the trip inside North Korea are now positioned on GoogleEarth, so you can see the exact position:</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: red;"><br /><a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-7086884/Vienna---Tumangan---Pyongyang-2008.kmz.html"><span style="color: red;">DOWNLOAD HERE (~50 kB)</span></a></span><br /><br /><br />OUR STORY</span><br />
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In september 2008 a friend of mine and I made a trip to the Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea, better known as North Korea.<br />
<br />
Not only that North Korea is quite an unusual touristic destination, the route to North Korea was even more unusual – I travelled the whole way from Vienna (Austria) to Pyongyang by train via Slovakia, Ukraine and Russia (my friend, he is from Switzerland, only joined me in Irkutsk). And we used <span style="font-weight: bold;">a route into North Korea, which is said to be impossible for tourists</span>:<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">We</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"> entered North Korea from Russia via the border at Hasan/Tumangan</span>, whereas usually tourists can only use the railway line from the Chinese-Korean border at Dandong/Sinuiju to Pyongyang.<br />
This route was open for tourist traffic only untill about 1994. It's likely that <span style="font-weight: bold;">we were the first tourists who travelled this line since then</span>.<br />
<br />
Our trip was <span style="font-weight: bold;">an experiment</span>, we just wanted to try this route. Long planning and debates whether we should really try it or not preceeded the trip.<br />
<br />
The state North Korean tourist company <span style="font-weight: bold;">KITC did not know in advance about our route</span>. And we did not know what would really happen to us after arrival at Tumangan.<br />
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But finally everything went well.<br />
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The highlights:<br />
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<br />
<ul>
<li>We went 860 km by train across whole North Korea, from the most North-Eastern point till Pyongyang.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>We passed through regions, which are usually <span style="font-weight: bold;">not accessible for tourists</span>.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>We spent about <span style="font-weight: bold;">36 hours on North Korean territory without a guide</span>.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>We walked around freely at Tumangan station, North Korean border station to Russia</li>
</ul>
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The train ticket to Pyongyang via Tumangan:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyOtVfvjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/OtVfvj.jpg" /></a><br />
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If you're interested in the whole story, then read our <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-everything-began.html">detailed travelogue</a>....<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">TRIP OVERVIEW</span><br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipKzyj9Uj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Kzyj9U.jpg" /></a><br />
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2008-09-07: leaving Vienna, changing trains at Bratislava and Kosice. Taking the Russian sleeping car to Moskva via Ukraine..<br />
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2008-09-09: changing trains in Moscow (3,5 hour layover). Train 118 to Novosibirsk via Kazan – Sverdlovsk – Omsk.<br />
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2008-09-11: arrival at Novosibirsk and short side trip (train 601) to Barnaul.<br />
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2008-09-12: short stay at Barnaul, leaving at lunchtime with train 626 to Novosibirsk. 5 hour layover at Novosibirsk in the evening, then by train 12 via Krasnoyarsk – Taishet to Usole-Sibirskoe.<br />
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2008-09-14: arriving at Usole-Sibirskoe (68 km from Irkutsk), visiting friends there. In the evening trip by express-eletrichka to Irkutsk. Meeting with my travel-buddy from Switzerland and his girlfriend (they have together made a big trip before, she didn’t come with us to North Korea, but flew home from Irkutsk).<br />
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2008-09-15: leaving Irkutsk on board of the Korean sleeping car attached to the “Rossiya” train twice-monthly (ususally on the 11th and 25th from Moscow and 4 days later from Irkutsk).<br />
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2008-09-18: layover at Ussurijsk (the Korean sleeping car is uncoupled from the “Rossiya” in the morning and leaves only in the afternoon with another train to Hasan (Russian border station), where it arrives late night.<br />
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2008-09-19: crossing the border between Russia and the Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea. Departure from Tumangan in the evening.<br />
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2008-09-20: arrival in Pyongyang late evening.<br />
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2008-09-21: sightseeing in/around Pyongyang<br />
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2008-09-22: sightseeing in/around Pyongyang<br />
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2008-09-23: sightseeing in/around Pyongyang<br />
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2008-09-24: sightseeing in/around Pyongyang<br />
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2008-09-25: leaving Pyongyang with the international train to Beijing. Border crossing at Sinuiju/Dandong.<br />
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2008-09-26: arrival at Beijing in the morning. Sightseeing in/around Beijing<br />
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2008-09-27: Sightseeing in/around Beijing<br />
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2008-09-28: Sightseeing in/around Beijing<br />
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2008-09-29: Flying home to Vienna/Zurich via Dusseldorf.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">PHOTO PREVIEW</span><br />
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Korean train Moscow - Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip2TZ6AGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/2TZ6AG.jpg" /></a><br />
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Tumangan, North Korean border station to Russia:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipAriLONj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/AriLON.jpg" /></a> <br />
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Inside North Korea:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey191AFvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/191AFv.jpg" /></a><br />
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Typical station in North Korea - the Great Leader is everywhere:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idHsCBvnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/HsCBvn.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<span style="color: white;">DPRK North Korea Trip Nordkorea Reise Tumangan DVRK travel agency visa</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/vienna-moscow.html"><br /></a><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-everything-began.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Our travelogue - click here</span></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><span style="font-weight: bold;">YOU'RE INTERESTED IN MAKING A TRIP TO THE DPRK?</span><br />
<br />
The "Man at Seat 61" has some useful informations for organizing trips to North Korea by train:<br />
<a href="http://www.seat61.com/NorthKorea.htm">http://www.seat61.com/NorthKorea.htm</a><br />
<a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/North_Korea#Get_in"><br />http://wikitravel.org/en/North_Korea#Get_in</a> has good information about trips to the DPRK and travel agencies, which can organize such trips.<br />
Now there is also a travel agency, which can even organize Europe - Pyongyang train trips (but not the route we took). Also I recently found out that theoretically there is a possibility to travel to Rajin via Tumangan legally (but not to Pyongyang).<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html"></a>Click <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html">here</a> for more information.<br />
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BTW, also US-citizen are accepted as tourists, but conditions for them (as well as for Israeli and Japanese citizen) are more restricted (trips only possible during certain periods, trip duration limited, departure/arrival only by plane, etc.).<br />
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I definitely recommend a trip to the DPRK. It is not cheap, but it is an experience you never forget as you will see a beautiful landscape and a society totally different from ours.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Visitors since 2009-06-09:</span><br />
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<script src="http://track.blogcounter.de/js.php?user=Vienna-Pyongyang&style=1" type="text/javascript"></script><noscript></noscript>Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-60880387296681746082013-03-08T14:27:00.000-08:002013-03-08T14:31:36.925-08:00Travelogue as pdfFor those, who want to save a copy of this travelogue on the personal computer, I have created a pdf-version of the travelogue.<br />
I've just printed the pages of this blog to pdf, so the layout is not perfect. I hope you like it anyway:<br />
<a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-7304022/The-forbidden-railway--Vienna---Pyongyang.pdf.html">http://www.file-upload.net/download-7304022/The-forbidden-railway--Vienna---Pyongyang.pdf.html</a><br />
<br />
The size of the pdf is about 130 MB.Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-80523863256207976152008-10-01T14:20:00.000-07:002011-09-02T12:15:50.442-07:00Book your own Europe - Pyongyang train trip!!!So, the train route via the border Khasan/Tumangan to Pyongyang is still not officially available for tourists. But there is a 2nd train from Moscow to Pyongyang. It goes via China.
<br />Or you can take a train from Moscow to Vladivostok and then continue by plane to North Korea.
<br />
<br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Now there is a travel agency which offers North Korea trips in combination </span><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">with the Transsiberian railways</span>: Please have a look at <a class="0" href="http://koreakonsult.com/index_eng.html">http://koreakonsult.com/index_eng.html</a>.
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<br />The agency is located in Sweden, I know them very well ;-)
<br />
<br />I can really recommend them and Julia - she is the owner of the company - is indeed a very nice and helpful person. She can organize everything for you to get from Europe to North Korea via Russia and China - except the route via Tumangan.
<br />
<br />As I wrote, we bought tickets for the Tumangan-route by ourselves and didn't tell the travel agency or KITC (the state tourist agency in North Korea) in advance about our real route into North Korea. It was a dangerous experiment and KITC and the travel agency were quite upset after that. And they also took precautions to prevent, that such happens again: Now the tickets to Pyongyang have to be categorically organized by the travel agency, individual ticket buying is no longer accepted by KITC, otherwise they would cancel the trip (and the visa).
<br />That's why I do not recommend to repeat what we did!
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<br /><strong>TUMANGAN - really totally impossible?</strong>
<br />
<br />Well, not really. Just recently I found out that it is theoretically possible to enter North Korea at Tumangan as a Western tourist. But it is not possible to take the train from Tumangan to Pyongyang, which we took.
<br />There are Russian travel agencies offering trips to the "Rajin-Sonbong Special Economic Zone" in the very north of North Korea, adjacent to Russia. They are aimed at Russians, but I found out, that also other foreign tourists are accepted on this tours. These tours go to Tumangan by train (usually starting at Khabarovsk or Vladivostok), where the tourists are picked up by buses and brought to a sea-resort at Rajin.
<br />
<br />Here are some links to Russian travel agencies offering trips to Rajin:
<br /><a href="http://www.biznes-mozaika.ru/asia/korea/programm">http://www.biznes-mozaika.ru/asia/korea/programm</a>
<br />(e-mail: <a href="mailto:biznes@mozaika.kht.ru" title="Отправить e-mail">biznes@mozaika.kht.ru</a>)
<br />
<br /><a href="http://www.berkuttour.ru/tours/asia/northkorea/program/?idnews=672">http://www.berkuttour.ru/tours/asia/northkorea/program/?idnews=672</a>
<br />(e-mail: <a href="mailto:berkut-turcenter@mail.ru">berkut-turcenter@mail.ru</a>)
<br />
<br /><a href="http://www.gebatour.ru/korea_n.htm">http://www.gebatour.ru/korea_n.htm</a>
<br />(e-mail: <a href="mailto:gebatour@mail.ru" title="Отправить e-mail">biznes@mozaika.kht.ru</a>)
<br />
<br /><a href="http://www.parallel-dv.ru/607823777">http://www.parallel-dv.ru/607823777</a>
<br />(e-mail: <a href="mailto:parallel_dv@mail.ru">parallel_dv@mail.ru</a>)
<br />
<br />I'm not sure whether they will be able to reply you in English. It might be necessary, that you speak some Russian to communicate with them and get the things organized.
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<br />
<br />However, now also KoryoTours (they are aimed at Western tourists, which makes it easier, if you don't speak Russian) offer now trips to Rajin, but starting from China. However, according to their <a href="http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_rason.php">website</a> it's at least possible to leave via Russia and the Tumangan/Khasan border crossing.
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<br /><strong>Meet the North Koreans in Russia!</strong>
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<br />Or if you just want to get a special experience you can reapeat what I did in 2006: Just take the North Korean waggon for a domestic trip (like Moscow - Irkutsk) inside Russia. This is totally legal and it's likely that you will be the only foreigner among North Koreans on board of this waggon. If your're interested, just contact me (<a href="mailto:provodnik@gmx.at">provodnik@gmx.at</a>).Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-60496424455406442352008-09-29T14:29:00.000-07:002015-01-17T15:00:46.829-08:00Beijing, Tianjin and back home to Austria<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-26</span>
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In Beijing we had booked a hostel in advance via <a href="http://www.hostels.com/">www.hostels.com</a>. Originally we planned to stay one night in Beijing, then take a night train to Shanghai, stay another night there and then fly home from Shanghai.
<br />
We had already booked the flight from Beijing to Vienna via Dusseldorf with AirBerlin, but some weeks before the trip, we were notified, that this flight would be cancelled. AirBerlin offered a full refund of the ticket price (~450 EUR) and a discount of 150 Euro for any other AirBerlin-flight.
<br />
So we booked a flight from Beijing with them and due to the discount it cost only 304 EUR. This flight was on the same day as the other flight from Shanghai, so we extended our stay in Beijing by two nights. The hostel for the 1st night (Beijing Downtown Backpackers) was already fully booked for the other two nights, so we booked another hostel (Wangfujing International Youth Hostel) for the 2nd and 3rd night.
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After arriving from Pyongyang at the main train station, we went to the hostel by taxi. Going by taxi in Beijing is relatively cheap and easy. It is just necessary to have the destination written on paper in Chinese. Fortunately the hostels adress was written also in Chinese on the booking confirmation.
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The hostel was in a quiet narrow road north of the city center. As both of us had already been to Beijing before, we were not in a hurry to do as much sightseeing as possible. We decided to make a day-trip to Tianjin with the new highspeed-train, but apart from that we had no plans yet. It was also good to have some time to work through all the impressions of our trip to North Korea and sometimes we couldn't believe that we really had sucessfully done the Tumangan-route to Pyongyang.
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On of the 1st things I did after arrival at the hotel was checking my e-mails and telling relatives and friends that our trip was a success and we were still alive. As expected there were also some e-mails from our travel agency in my inbox, which I could read only now. Our last-minute-announcement about the "modified arrival details" for Pyongyang caused – initially – a lot of confusion and then a lot of troubles at the travel agency (Korea Konsult) and within KITC. But it was not possible to prevent us from entering at Tumangan…
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However, it seemed that our trip was quite a shock for KITC and that they would now do everything to prevent that something similar happens again.
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Well, back to Beijing. After hanging around at the hostel for some hours we decided to make a walk around downtown Beijing.
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The narrow road, where the hostel was located:<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
We made a lunch break at a restaurant in Jingshan Xije road, then headed for the Jingshan park.
<br />
<br />
View from the hill in the Jingshan park, Beihai lake in the foreground.<br />
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<br />
It is quite unusual to have such a clear sky in Beijing which even allows to see the distant mountains! Usually one cannot see further than one kilometer due to the fog/smog…
<br />
<br />
View from Jingshan park to the east:<br />
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We then went around the Forbidden City down to Tiananmen Square.
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Forbidden City, palace moat:<br />
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Tiananmen Square:<br />
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The Qianmen Dajie road leading to the south from Tiananmen Square had been totally rebuilt since my first visit to Bejing in 2005. It is now a pedestrian zone, all houses are new, but everything looks very kitschy and artificially…<br />
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I prefer the smaller and more traditional roads like Dazhalan Xijie with lots of small shops and sales booths for everything.<br />
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It is not necessary to have a car to transport big and heavy things – we Europeans should learn from the Chinese people regarding that ;-)<br />
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<br />
In the evening we went to the train station to buy tickets to Tianjin. We asked the hostel staff to write our ticket request on a sheet of paper, but we also found a ticket booth, were english was spoken.
<br />
Due to the low price level we decided to travel in 1st class. The one-way-ticket for the 130-km-trip cost just 69 Yuan (~ 7 EUR).
<br />
<br />
<b>2008-09-27</b>
<br />
<br />
After breakfast we took a taxi to get to the station Beijing South, from where the highspeed trains depart. The ride took about 45 minutes.
<br />
<br />
<br />
Arriving at the station by taxi:
<br />
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The station is more like an airport with all that security checks at the entrance:<br />
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<br />
<br />
Everything is kept clean:
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
We found some "propaganda" about the Chinese railway plans fort he future:
<br />
<br />
Map showing the highspeed line Beijing – Shanghai (under construction):
<br />
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Planned new train station and airport at Shanghai:<br />
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UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Normale Tabelle";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
line-height:115%;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idmUWKmej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/mUWKme.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idd16sLKj" target="_blank"></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdyimOCJj" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5qcjVz2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/qcjVz2.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Beijing South station:<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5qcjVz2j" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]--><br />
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>DE-AT</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="267">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
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UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
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UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Normale Tabelle";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin-top:0cm;
mso-para-margin-right:0cm;
mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt;
mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
line-height:115%;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbRuKoJsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/RuKoJs.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idmUWKmej" target="_blank"></a></div>
(it seems that even more underground tracks are planned in the future, they don't seem to exist already)<br />
<br />
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]--><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0rH8x0Hj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/rH8x0H.jpg" /></a><br />
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>DE-AT</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="267">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
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A few minutes before the departure the boarding starts and we can go to the platform. There we still had some time for a few photos.
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Our train was a Siemens-"Velaro" train (CRH3):<br />
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<br />
<br />
Train ticket Beijing – Tianjin:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyWhkRmHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/WhkRmH.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/7u13.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<br />
The train seemed to be fully booked. Inside a 2nd class wagon (only ~10 Yuan cheaper than 1st class):<br />
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<br />
<br />
The ride was smooth and fast – 334 km/h was the top speed:<br />
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<br />
<br />
After 30 minutes we arrived at Tianjin, and the first thing we did there was buying the return tickets. The ticket office was quite crowded. There were also some ticket machines and we decided to use them, as the "spoke" also English. For the Chinese people it was quite unusual to see Europeans buying tickets themselves at the ticket machine, everyone was looking over our shoulders. And when they saw, that the machine could be switched to English, everyone was quite surprised… ;-)
<br />
We bought tickets for a train departing in the afternoon, so we had some time for a walk.
<br />
<br />
Ticket office:<br />
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Downtown Tianjin has some quite European looking buildings from the colonial era.<br />
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<br />
<br />
By the way, we noticed that especially here in Tianjin, but also in Beijing, many people now were using electric bikes or other electricity-powered vehicles.
<br />
<br />
I do not know who they were and why they were marching lock-step…anyway quite funny.<br />
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<br />
<br />
Back to the station we took such a taxi:<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0MCDGHvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/MCDGHv.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
<br />
Small booth selling the Chinese railway timetable book:<br />
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We were lucky, on the way back we had a CRH2-train, so we experienced both types of trains used on that line:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idOUuL8vj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/OUuL8v.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Ticket Tianjin – Beijing:<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Inside 1st class waggon:<br />
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<br />
<br />
Some videos of the train ride with more than 300 km/h:
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXoLQPlSZr4">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXoLQPlSZr4</a>
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5-3q--KHzY">
<br />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5-3q--KHzY</a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4msgn7lLIto">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4msgn7lLIto</a>
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<br />
<br />
Exit gates at Beijing South station – it's important to keep the ticket till leaving the station:<br />
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<br />
<br />
We took a taxi to our hostel, where we just picked up our backpacks and continued to the other hostel for the remaining two nights at Beijing.
<br />
<br />
In the evening we rented bikes to ride around, which was quite funny. We also stopped at the main station to take some photos of the international train to Moscow, which departs from Beijing every friday (there is a 2nd weekly train going via Mongolia):
<br />
<br />
Chinese dining and sleeping car to Manzhouli (at the border to Russia):<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
At Shenyang two similar wagons coming from Pyongyang are attached to this train. These wagons are the officially (by KITC) accepted way to travel from Russia to North Korea or vice versa by train…
<br />
<br />
Departure of the train to Moscow:
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F2OA2iH0TY">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F2OA2iH0TY</a>
<br />
<br />
Of course I would have preferred taking this train over flying to get back home to Europe, but my job was already waiting for me…. I'd need more holiday ;-)
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-28</span>
<br />
<br />
It was quite an unspectacular day for me. Oliver decided to make a trip to the Chinese Wall, he had not been there before. As I felt al little bit tired and had already done the same trip in 2005, I decided to stay in Beijing and make a lazy day.
<br />
<br />
I started to sort my photos, made another bike trip, had lunch, did some shopping etc.
<br />
<br />
Beijing by night:<br />
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<br />
<br />
No visible evidence of communism….
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-29</span>
<br />
<br />
That was a long day for us. We got up at 6 and left the hostel at 7. A taxi brought us to the airport, where we noticed that we were at the wrong terminal. So we had to take a bus to the other terminal. But we were not in a hurry, departure was only at 11 or so.
<br />
<br />
The plane to Dusseldorf:
<br />
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<br />
<br />
The route of the flight was via Mongolia, Siberia and the Baltic Sea. Only till the Sayan mountains (just west of the Baikal Lake) we had clear view to the ground, so it was quite boring for most of the time.
<br />
I have to admit that take-off and landing is quite spectacular, but apart from that I prefer train travel. A week on a decent North Korean train is more comfortable than 10 hours economy class…
<br />
We arrived at Dusseldorf in the late afternoon (local time). Oliver's connecting flight to Zurich was within one and a half hour, whereas I had to wait for four hours.
<br />
The flight to Vienna took 90 minutes and after a 30-minutes train trip with a suburban train I arrived at the small station Wien-Traisengasse at 10 p.m. local time (already 4 a.m. Chinese time) – the same station, from where I had started the adventure 22 days before…
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Two more minutes walking and I was at home in my apartment - 22 hours after getting up in Beijing.
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<br />
<br />
---------------------------------------------
<br />
<br />
<br />
That was it...I hope you liked the travelogue and I appreciate your patience, as it took me nearly a year to write this travelogue.
<br />
And I also apologize for typing errors and grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, and so it might not be perfect, but I wanted to make the report available for a greater audience, so I decided to write in English instead of German.
<br />
And I ask all of you, who are not so much interested in railways, for your understanding for the many rail-related details in the travelogue...
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<br />
<br />
Apart from that I hope, that the travelogue provided some useful and interesting background information about the DPRK, which you don't get from the news on TV.
<br />
I think that a country must not be reduced to it's government in the personal perception. I don't support the North Korean regime and I don't deny the problems which exist there, but the country doesn't exist only of Kim Jong Il, nuclear bombs, concentration camps and starvation.
<br />
Most of the people there are also just people as everywhere, they live under quite hard circumstances, but they also have family and friends, make jokes, make love, go to work…of course our contact to them was limited, but the few encounters with North Koreans, we had (train staff, fellow passengers, border guards at Tumangan and of course our guides), were very nice and interesting and I hope that one day I can meet some of them again….
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<br />
I still often think about this trip. Sometimes I have the feeling as it was just some days ago, but sometimes I feel that it was already very far in the past or that it even didn't happen at all. I think that this is due to the fact that the places, to which we have been, are so hard to reach…
<br />
I still hope that there will one day be a happy end for the situation in North Korea and that North Korean people will be able to travel like we did and that we will be able to travel across North Korea more freely.
<br />
If possible, I will visit this fascinating country a 2nd, 3rd, etc time and I hope I will one day have the possibility to explore especially the regions which we crossed by train on the way from the border at Tumangan to Pyongyang.
<br />
There is still so much to see there. After our trip my interest into this country grew even more and now I often think, that I should have kept my eyes even more open on the trip. And that I should have taken even more photos during the train trip, especially of everyday life. But on the other hand, we were glad that we could take this route at all and too afraid to take photos when people were looking at us.
<br />
I also appreciate the feedback of all of you, I received a lot of e-mails and comments on my blog from all over the world. Please apologize, that I couldn't answer personally to every mail due to lack of time. I tried to answer all e-mails containing questions, but maybe I just forgot some e-mails. So if you still have an unanswered question, please send me an reminding e-mail.
<br />
<br />
If anyone can provide additional information about trains in North Korea and especially the Tumangan-route, please write me an e-mail.
<br />
And I would also like to get in contact with others, who have 1st hand experience with the Tumangan-route. As this route was open to tourists till around 1995, I'm sure that there are more people who travelled this way. I personally know three other people, who did this route before 1995.
<br />
Or if one day somebody succesfully repeats our trip – please report!!!
<br />
I also found a report from some Russians, who recently took a train from Pyongyang to Chongjin and then further via Tumangan/Khasan to Russia on a business trip. They visited the Russian consulate at Chongjin, so maybe they were Russian diplomats. Their report is at <a href="http://www.ermanok.net/news/comment.php?1591">http://www.ermanok.net/news/comment.php?1591</a> (sorry, in Russian only, you might use Google to translate it).
<br />
<br />
I also decided to create a blog dedicated to the North Korean railways at <a href="http://dprk-railway.blogspot.com/">http://dprk-railway.blogspot.com/</a>
<br />
I hadn't yet much time to create a lot of content, there are just some photos of another rail-related trip to North Korea done by a friend of mine in 2005.
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But I plan to collect more information about the railway system in North Korea, please just be patient!
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If you're interested, please subscribe there as a follower. Any important news regarding the Tumangan-route will also be posted there.
<br />
<br />
Last but not least I also want to apologize for the troubles which our trip caused for "<a href="http://koreakonsult.com/index_eng.html">Korea Konsult</a>" (the travel agency with which be booked the trip) and for anyone else.
<br />
I admit we were quite egoistic when doing this adventure. It was no one elses fault, that we could enter North Korea via this back door – it was just our crazy plan and we had to realize it at that time, as the timeframe we had choosen for the trip, turned out to be perfect for the experiment during the planning phase (a small mystery – the ideal time for such a trip has something to do with the number 106,5...ho has an idea?).
<br />
And if you want to travel to North Korea yourself (on "legal" routes), I really recommend "<a href="http://koreakonsult.com/index_eng.html">Korea Konsult</a>", they did a good job!
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<br />
Or if you just want to get some special experience you can reapeat what I did in 2006: Just take the North Korean waggon for a domestic trip (like Moscow - Irkutsk) inside Russia. This is totally legal and it's likely that you will be the only foreigner among North Koreans on board of this waggon. If your're interested, just contact me.
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Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com214tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-66311899000160908482008-09-26T09:11:00.000-07:002015-06-28T11:35:51.156-07:00Train trip to Beijing - back to the "outside world"<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-25</span><br />
<br />
On that day we left Pyongyang. We met our guides after breakfast and they gave us our passports and our “sealed” mobile phones.<br />
In the passport we now also had some kind of registration stamp and another stamp, which allowed us to leave via Sinuiju:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0VSi8kdj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/VSi8kd.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
Before going to the station, we had another metro ride. We asked our guides the day before about that, because Oliver, who is also quite interested in public transportation, stayed at the hotel when the scheduled metro-ride took place.<br />
Also the 2nd metro-ride was between the two stations, which are usually shown to tourists:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4BKCLv3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/BKCLv3.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyNppXukj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/NppXuk.jpg" /></a>
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From Yonggwang station we walked to the train station.<br />
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Tramway reconstruction also here:<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/wjw1.jpg/" target="_blank">
</a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/wjw1.jpg/" target="_blank">
</a><br />
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Pyongyang train station:<br />
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The train tickets to Beijing, which we had picked up the day before at the KITC-office:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0qutFdBj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/qutFdB.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdxiOhQbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/xiOhQb.jpg" /></a>
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<br />
2nd class ticket:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipyo564Sj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/yo564S.jpg" /></a>
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Sleeper reservation:<br />
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<br />
The price of the basic ticket was 46,55 CHF per person, the obligatory sleeper upgrade cost 24,52 CHF.<br />
The official exchange rate is 1 CHF = 120,1 KPW.<br />
<br />
Ticket rules:<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/edz.JPG/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pc4fZQACj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/4fZQAC.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4S8jhv2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/S8jhv2.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eytvrxfYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/tvrxfY.jpg" /></a><br />
Everything is written in Korean, Russian and German. For thos who wonder about this languages: The legal base, under which international train train-ticketing between the railways of the states of the former USSR, Mongolia, China, North Korea and Vietnam is organized, is the so-called MPT-tariff (“mezhdunarodnyj passashirskij tarif”. Till around 1990 also the railways of the former socialist countries in Europe (among them: Eastern Germany) where members at this tariff agreement. The rule was (and is still today) that inscriptions on tickets have to be in Russian and German and the language of the issuing railway.<br />
<br />
Here you can see other MPT-tickets issued in Mongolia and China:<br />
<br />
Mongolian ticket Ulaanbaatar – Beijing:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p14hxKrzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/4hxKrz.jpg" /></a><br />
Chinese ticket Urumqi – Almaty:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exEIyYeNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/EIyYeN.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/ywnn.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Two other interesting facts:<br />
The prices of the MPT-tariff are fixed in Swiss Francs. That’s why the price on the ticket is usually listed in Swiss Francs and the local currency.<br />
20 years ago prices were much cheaper. An interesting comparison for international ticket prices of the Polish railways in 1988:<br />
Warsaw – Pyongyang: 11.598 Zloty<br />
Warsaw – Vienna: 11.557 Zloty<br />
So nearly the same price (was then about 480 Austrian Schillings (35 EUR)) for 12.000 and 600 kilometers. But the difference was that different tariff agreements applied: The MPS-tariff with heavily subsidized fares between socialist countries and the TCV-tariff for tickets to capitalist countries.<br />
I know some people from Austria who made Transsiberian trips to Beijing in the 1980ies and bought in Hungary cheap tickets to Beijing for nothing – only a few hundred schillings…<br />
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<br />
We were guided to a special loung for international passengers, where we waited maybe 10 minutes.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0TCSsfaj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/TCSsfa.jpg" /></a>
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At the platform:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0jciQRCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/jciQRC.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<br />
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We gave a tip and some souvenirs from Austria and Switzerland to our guides and said good-bye.<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcY1Zd9Wj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/Y1Zd9W.jpg" /></a> <br />
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We left Pyongyang with ambivalent feelings at 10:10. On the one hand we had a good and interesting time here with our guides, but on the other hand we were now quite relieved, that finally everything went well and no further problems during our stay in Pyongyang occurred, which was not 100% sure considering how we arrived…<br />
Of course the greatest excitement was between the departure from the Russian border village Khasan and the first (friendly and thus encouraging for the further procedure) contact with the North Korean border soldiers at Tumangan.<br />
But would there be any examination in Pyongyang? Would someone search for photos taken at Tumangan and during the trip?<br />
Now that we departed we were quite sure that the remaining border control at Sinuiju would only be a small hurdle.<br />
<br />
BTW, for those who still wonder, how the guides knew about our arrival time in Pyongyang (many readers asked me about this indeed quite interesting detail): Well, we took precautions so that KITC knew about our exact arrival time - early enough to inform the guides, but late enought to not be able to prevent our entry at Tumangan...<br />
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The timetable from Pyongyang to Beijing:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hl2jKO8mj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/2jKO8m.jpg" /></a>
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<span style="font-family: courier new;"><br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
<br />
| station | arrival | departure | train |
<br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
<br />
| Pjöng Yang | | 10:10 | 5 |
<br />
| Sinanzhu | 11:44 | 11:54 | |
<br />
| Chzhontu | 12:44 | 12:56 | |
<br />
| Sonchon | 13:39 | 13:41 | |
<br />
| Yomzhu | 14:22 | 14:46 | |
<br />
| Sinuiju (North Korean border town)| 15:04 | 17:13 | |
<br />
| Dandong (Chinese border town) | 16:23 | 18:31 | K28 |
<br />
| Fenghuangcheng | 19:18 | 19:21 | |
<br />
| Muxi | 21:00 | 21:06 | |
<br />
| Shenyang | 22:09 | 22:24 | |
<br />
| Jinzhgou | 00:57 | 01:03 | |
<br />
| Shanhaiguan | 03:01 | 03:09 | |
<br />
| Beidaihe | 03:37 | 03:54 | |
<br />
| Tangshan | 05:27 | 05:30 | |
<br />
| Tianjin | 06:45 | 06:55 | |
<br />
| Beijing | 08:29 | | |
<br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
</span><br />
<br />
<br />
The train consisted of two sleeping-cars going to Beijing. Then there was a dining car and maybe 10 domestic waggons, which only went to Sinuiju, the North Korean border town.<br />
The sleeping cars to Beijing are the newest waggons of the North Korean railways, they are new Chinese-built waggons.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8rIFoPqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/rIFoPq.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idmSicnKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/mSicnK.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Also interesting: The train was pulled by a diesel-locomotive, alltough the line to Sinuiju is electrified. Maybe this is to guarantee punctual operation in case of electric power blackouts.<br />
So, one can see that this train – unlike the train from Tumangan – has a special status…<br />
<br />
Another train close to Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex9eZnibj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/9eZnib.jpg" /></a> <br />
Apart from the length the train line from Pyongyang to Sinuiju is similar than the line from Tumangan. Similar things can be seen from the train window, the villages and towns on the Tumangan-line don’t look worse in my opinion.<br />
However, the track condition is better (but still far away from good) on the Sinuiju-line. Whereas the average speed between Tumangan and Pyongyang was only 29 km/h (860 km in 30 hours), it is 46 km/h between Pyongyang and Sinuiju.<br />
<br />
But also the line Pyongyang – Sinuiju had seen better times:<br />
1981: 60 km/h, 3h45 (source: International timetable of the Soviet railways, see <a href="http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/21/szd052.jpg">http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/21/szd052.jpg</a> or download the whole timetable book at <a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-10725360/SZD-international-timetable-1981.zip.html">http://www.file-upload.net/download-10725360/SZD-international-timetable-1981.zip.html
</a>(10 MB))<br />
1997: 50 km/h, 4h30 (source: <a href="http://www.transport.ru/20/timetbl/intern/m_pxenjan2.htm">http://www.transport.ru/20/timetbl/intern/m_pxenjan2.htm</a>)<br />
2008: 46 km/h, 4h54<br />
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<br />
We had a lower and a upper bed in a 4-bed-compartment, which we shared with tow North Korean diplomats.<br />
The international sleeping cars were fully booked, but there were no other Western tourists. The other passengers also seemed to be privileged North Koreans or Chinese tourists.<br />
<br />
The diplomats spoke some english, and it was interesting for us to see their passports – and for them to see ours.<br />
They had an interesting collection of visas, mainly from African countries. One of them also had a Swiss visa with entry/exit stamps from Geneve. The other one once took the train from Moscow (to where he flew) to Sofia via Ukraine and Romania, he had a Romanian transit visa and the stamps from Brjansk/Konotop, Vicsany/Vadul Siret and Giurgiu/Russe.<br />
Now they went to Beijing from where they continued by plane to Africa (they didn’t mention the country).<br />
<br />
A North Korean passport:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipnwZJVKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/nwZJVK.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
(photo was taken in December 2006, when I travelled from Moscow to Irkutsk in the North Korean sleeping car)<br />
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At Sinanju station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex9eZnibj" target="_blank"></a> <a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exLwJixMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/LwJixM.jpg" /></a><br />
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After leaving Sinanju a waitress from the dining car came to our waggon and asked whether we would like to have lunch in the dining car for 5 EUR.<br />
That’s we we then did:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/patpSTEIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/tpSTEI.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0im6eLlj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/im6eLl.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f004jCE6j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/04jCE6.jpg" /></a><br />
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To my surprise Heineken beer was served:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0KEH7ZAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/KEH7ZA.jpg" /></a><br />
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Freight train at Sonchon:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1xRZRyRj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/xRZRyR.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyTgOlpMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/TgOlpM.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/y7q4.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/y7q4.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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About 30 minutes before arriving at Sinuiju we had to wait on a siding for the Beijing – Pyongyang train, which conveyed three instead of as usual just two international waggons.<br />
Apart from that train we met two or three other passenger trains in the opposite direction between Pyongyang and Sinuiju.<br />
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<br />
Finally we arrived at Sinuiju. The border stop lasts for two hours. Soldiers came and collected our passports. Other soldiers checked our luggage, but no one asked for the customs declaration, which I filled in at Tumangan. So I still have it ;-)<br />
Of course laptop and digital camera were of special interest for customs officials. One officer checked the photos on the camera – I knew that something like that would happen…but that was the reason that I took a laptop with me.<br />
So only the usual tourist photos were saved on the memory card. And the above photos of the freight train with the people I moved to the internal memory of the camera after I took them. They are not shown in the play-modus, if a memory card is inserted…<br />
However, I was also asked to switch on my laptop, but they didn’t really search for photos.. And even if they had searched for photos, I’m sure they wouldn’t have found them (renamed zip-file, looked like a windows system file and saved somewhere in C:/windows….Ok, I’m sure there are more professional ways to hide files, but that seemed the easiest way for me being no computer-expert).<br />
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Apart from the photos I could also smuggle a 5.000-won banknote out of the country. I bought this souvenir from one of our fellow passengers during the train ride Tumangan – Pyongyang. The price was according to the black-market rate: 1,15 EUR for 5000 Won (4350 KPW = 1 EUR, official rate: 185 KPW = 1 EUR)<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p59z4uJmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/9z4uJm.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exNdSSVMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/NdSSVM.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/w48a.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><br />
<br />
Finally the passports were returned to us:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1sipA9qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/sipA9q.jpg" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/vhi6.jpg/" target="_blank"></a> <br />
<br />
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Entry at Tumangan (두만강), Exit at Siniuju (신의주) – our experiment was a success!!<br />
<br />
We were now also allowed to unwrap our mobile phones. I switched it on and as we were close to China I could also send some sms using the Chinese mobile network.<br />
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Finally we left Siniiju and crossed the Yalu-river over to Dandong in China:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex401sfDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/401sfD.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlBY0tZVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/BY0tZV.jpg" /></a>
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Alltough also China is also exotic for us, we now had the feeling that were going back to “our” world…<br />
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The station at Dandong was just being rebuilt:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exRG6ckgj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/RG6ckg.jpg" /></a>
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The Chinese border control is not really worth mentioning, no questions, no luggage control, they just checked our temperature…<br />
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My Chinese visa:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4S6KGSYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/S6KGSY.jpg" /></a><br />
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We got double-entry visas, alltough we needed only one entry. But we wanted to be flexible if we had to cancel the Tumangan-experiment at short notice for some reason.<br />
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Chinese entry and exit (received some days later) stamp:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paVrQkh3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/VrQkh3.jpg" /></a> <br />
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The border control was finished at 17:00 – half an hour after we arrived. Meanwhile the two international waggons were coupled to a long Chinese domestic train.<br />
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We got off to make some photos.<br />
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A local train from Sinuiju to Dandong just arrived. We saw this train already at Sinuiju, it seems as it is intended for local Chinese and Korean traiders.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey0oJu3Nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/0oJu3N.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/xc43.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0DW6qgHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/DW6qgH.jpg" /></a><br />
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The two Pyongyang – Beijing sleeping cars:<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/6htf.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbgzJQNJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/gzJQNJ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1nQbVVSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/nQbVVS.jpg" /></a><br />
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Air-suspended boogies: <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/ysrs.jpg/" target="_blank">
</a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/ysrs.jpg/" target="_blank">
</a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exZmSZOrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ZmSZOr.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9jWfnSsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/jWfnSs.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exMPbjaPj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/MPbjaP.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
The domestic Chinese portion of the train:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exkcYnX4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/kcYnX4.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idWiDFN0j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/WiDFN0.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipQWo4B5j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/QWo4B5.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pd7AdTC6j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/7AdTC6.jpg" /></a>
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On the right – the local train from Sinuiju:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1Z9Lo4Rj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/Z9Lo4R.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj3wu242j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/3wu242.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exY35nJNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/Y35nJN.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcy337Mhj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/y337Mh.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
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<br />
This modern DF11G pulled our train to Beijing:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip1RJTzCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/1RJTzC.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5TBa420j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/TBa420.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idmRQ7avj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/mRQ7av.jpg" /></a><br />
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While taking photos a railway employee shouted someting to us, but we didn’t understand him …<br />
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The dining car – now we knew where we would have dinner.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p51FvtZGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/1FvtZG.jpg" /></a>
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We still had about one hour waiting time, so we decided to walk to the Yalu river to have a last glimpse over to North Korea.<br />
We asked our conductors for the tickets (they are needed to re-enter the station) and left the train station. It’s only 800 meters from the train station to the Yalu river.<br />
It was a good feeling to walk around freely. The last time that we did this, was at Tumangan… ;-)<br />
The street to the river was quite busy – cars, buses, people, shops, restaurants…we felt like at home...<br />
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The bridge – guess where North Korea begins:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipBGj806j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/BGj806.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eylGwgUQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/lGwgUQ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyuNDYzOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/uNDYzO.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4UC7AYqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/UC7AYq.jpg" /></a><br />
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It is a strange feeling to stand here so close to North Korea. Although North Korea is so close and although we had been on the other side just some hours ago it seemed as distant and unreachable as another planet at this moment.<br />
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On the way back to the station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Oio4DWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Oio4DW.jpg" /></a><br />
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At an ATM we received some Chinese money, then we entered the station and boarded the train.<br />
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Just after we departed, we left for the dining-car, which was located 5-6 waggons ahead. The menu in the dining car was only in Chinese, but with the help of the LP guidebook we could order pork sweet-sour with rice.<br />
The dining car was well occupied and also some North Korean passengers had dinner here.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exX3qxfBj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/X3qxfB.jpg" /></a>
We then returned to our waggon and sat some while in our compartment. Then I heard some music coming from one of the other compartments and when I had a look on the corridor to find out more, one of the conductors came and guided me to the compartment from which the music came.<br />
The compartment was occupied by three pretty North Korean girls (maybe music students) and a woman (maybe their guide or something similar). I haven’t found out their exact background and why they travelled to Beijing due to the language barrier, but nevertheless it was nice ;-)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0umgKdnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/umgKdn.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idWyBQ1Lj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/WyBQ1L.jpg" /></a>
<br />
Some videos:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55NRbreU3Ps">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55NRbreU3Ps</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8hDsNcESdk">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8hDsNcESdk</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa_0VA5XShE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa_0VA5XShE</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
15 minutes stop at Shenyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyLJFpCQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/LJFpCQ.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcfKlYIAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/fKlYIA.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-26</span><br />
<br />
The train ride during the night was smooth – no ta-tak-ta-tak like in North Korea. The 1132km-trip from Danding to Beijing takes 14 hours, that’s an average speed of 81 km/h.<br />
<br />
High speed trains at the new Beijing South station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f04gzFLFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/4gzFLF.jpg" /></a>
<br />
We passed Beijing South station without stopping – what a difference compared to stations in North Korea:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1Ubny0rj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/Ubny0r.jpg" /></a>
We were overtaken by an ICE-Velaro highspeed-train (CRH3):<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiODbxxVVJI">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiODbxxVVJI</a> (this is of course not full speed of the CRH3)<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip4WYtS5j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/4WYtS5.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Another highspeed-train:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbCeUfi4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/CeUfi4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exVwJ3rZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/VwJ3rZ.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hl3rRfNRj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/3rRfNR.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0e4owWOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/e4owWO.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Finally we arrived at Beijing main station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8Ub6GCrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/Ub6GCr.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idzjkOFzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/zjkOFz.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
(have a look at the Coca-Cola bottle in the right window…also North Koreans like “imperialistic” softdrinks…)<br />
<style>
</style>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8Ub6GCrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/Ub6GCr.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Our nice fellow passengers are leaving:<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/x2b9.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iphTJIY0j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/hTJIY0.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipc8NqMLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/c8NqML.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idBZzQVYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/BZzQVY.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipBbmlEHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/BbmlEH.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Chinese part of the train:<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/k71p.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlhHhuJxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/hHhuJx.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Unloading the luggage waggon:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcyB9XQNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/yB9XQN.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Beijing main station from outside:
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj55eZc4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/55eZc4.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3333ff;"><b></b></span><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/09/beijing-tianjin-and-back-home-to.html"><span style="color: red; font-size: 180%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">YOU ALSO WANT TO TRAVEL EUROPE - PYONGYANG BY TRAIN?</span><br />
<br />
Now there is also <span style="color: red;">a travel agency, which can even organize Europe - Pyongyang train trips</span> (but not the route we took). Also I recently found out that theoretically there is a possibility to travel to Rajin via Tumangan legally (but not to Pyongyang).<br />
Click <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html">here</a> for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY WEBSITE ABOUT CHEAP TICKETS FOR THE TRANSSIBERIAN RAILWAY</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/">http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
To be continued...
Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-29079475759502811302008-09-24T05:08:00.000-07:002015-01-17T13:53:26.428-08:00Pyongyang metro, Children's Palace, etc.<b>2008-09-24</b><br />
<br />
Program for the day:<br />
- Juche tower<br />
- Worker's Party monument<br />
- Three Revolutions exhibition<br />
- Metro ride<br />
- Kim-Il-Sung square<br />
- Lunch at the hotel<br />
- "Pueblo"<br />
- Kim-Il-Sung statue at Mansudae Hill<br />
- Book shop<br />
- Children's Palace<br />
- farewell dinner at a restaurant<br />
<br />
<br />
As Oliver felt sick today, he decided to stay at the hotel. Till lunch only one of the guides accompanied me, whereas the other stayed at the hotel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Juche Tower and Worker's Party Foundation Monument</b><br />
<br />
<br />
The Juche Tower was the first point on the agenda for today. As the weather was quite foggy, I decided not to go up, but nevertheless it was quite impressive:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Xy1N7lj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Xy1N7l.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
These plates are from foreign Juche idea study groups, they are showing the world's enormous interest into Juche ideology and Kimilsungism….<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idbCqAJvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/bCqAJv.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Then we drove to the Worker's Party Foundation Monument. It consists of three hands, holding a hammer, a hoe, and a brush. They represent the three classes of the North Korean society: workers, peasants and intellectuals.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
Just next to it I could also take another tramway photo:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4BOowPzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/BOowPz.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
The Ryugyong hotel can be seen in the foggy background:<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Three Revolutions Exhibition</b><br />
<br />
We made a short visit at the Three Revolutions Exhibition, where some exhibited trains drew my attention:<br />
<br />
A Korean-made (?) M62-version:<br />
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mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
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mso-para-margin-left:0cm;
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mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
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mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipkvG8tsj" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Electric locomotive:<br />
<br />
<br />
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<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
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<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
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<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
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<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>DE-AT</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
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<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
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<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
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<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Normale Tabelle";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
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line-height:115%;
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font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
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mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;
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<![endif]-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcwVyNlHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/wVyNlH.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pco804Vuj" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipLADK96j" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
Builder's plate:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pco804Vuj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/o804Vu.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Some more freight wagons:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipLADK96j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/LADK96.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idctp1Sdj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/ctp1Sd.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
We then visited the space department of the exhibition.<br />
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<br />
<br />
There they presented some kind of show, which explained various space related things (solar system, stars, solar/lunar eclipses – the usual stuff). The guide there spoke some Russian, so I could exchange a few words with her. She told me that she had learned Russian in Vladivostok at the university.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Metro ride</b><br />
<br />
Next activity was a metro ride. We drove to the Puhung station (which is the terminal station of one of the two metro lines) and from there went by metro one stop to the Yonggwang station (next to the train station).<br />
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<br />
<br />
See also the maps-section at <a href="http://www.pyongyang-metro.com/">http://www.pyongyang-metro.com/</a><br />
The station names don't refer to the area in which they are located, but have meanings like "victory" and "glory".<br />
Puhung means "rehabilitation", Yonggwang means "glory".<br />
<br />
<br />
Inside the station building:<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
Usually tourists and their guides can pass the gates without showing a ticket, but I said that I wanted to ride the metro legally ;-)<br />
<br />
So the guide bought tickets for us:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip3Sh6ryj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/3Sh6ry.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
The escalators down to the platform:<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
The standing-right-walking-left-principle for escalators seems to be unknown only in two towns worldwide: My hometown Graz, where I - when I visit it on a weekend – always get angry about the stupid people standing on the left side on the escalator. And Pyongyang, where nobody seems to be in a hurry ;-)<br />
<br />
At the platform:<br />
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I asked the guide not to take the 1st available train, but to wait a little bit to have more times for photos. As far as I remember the trains ran at an interval of about 5 minutes.<br />
<br />
Newspapers on the platform:<br />
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<br />
<br />
Video of an arriving train and it's passengers:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cB-HZe_NdcM">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cB-HZe_NdcM</a><br />
<br />
Another video:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vn5plCngNRs">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vn5plCngNRs</a><br />
(the 1st train arrives empty as it is the terminal stops and it just starts it's run here and came from the waiting track. The 2nd train of the other direction accordingly leaves empty, it goes to the waiting track)<br />
<br />
<br />
Inside the metro train:<br />
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<br />
<br />
The metro trains were bought 2nd hand from Berlin. Of course all German inscriptions had been removed. But apparently they didn't replace all scratched windows, as I read somewhere. Our train had original scratched windows from Berlin ;-)<br />
<br />
Video during the metro ride (not very spectacular, I admit):<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwKG1W34jCU">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwKG1W34jCU</a><br />
<br />
<br />
At Yonggwang station:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGgzGcw7zW0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGgzGcw7zW0</a><br />
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<br />
<br />
Before leaving Yonggwang station, we stopped at a small office, where a employee of the metro offered me a booklet about the Pyongyang metro. Of course I bought it.<br />
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The whole booklet is also available online at http://www.pyongyang-metro.com/metrobook.html<br />
<br />
Station entrance:<br />
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<br />
<br />
Also here, close to the train station (can be seen in the background), the tramway network was under reconstruction:<br />
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<br />
<br />
So, I too only saw the two stations usually shown to tourists. There are even rumors, that only this two stations exist and that the whole metro is a huge setting for tourists and that all Korean passengers are actors…. Ok, although North Korea has much to offer for conspiracy theories, I had the impression that the metro really serves as means of transportation for the Pyongyang citizen.<br />
I also heard reports of tourists, who could visit some other stations.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Kim Il Sung square</b><br />
<br />
The driver and our car were already waiting for us. He then brought us to Kim Il Sung square:<br />
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Karl Marx….<br />
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<br />
<br />
… and Lenin:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipp9H5gGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/p9H5gG.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Alltough the North Koreans are proud of the own Juche-ideology, the – according to them –<br />
perfected way of communism, here they honour the two originators of Communism.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8HGNSgBj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/HGNSgB.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
As it was now already time for lunch, we went back to the hotel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>USS Pueblo</b><br />
<br />
In the afternoon both guides accompanied me and we started our tour with the "USS Pueblo" ship. The spy ship was captured by North Korea in 1968.<br />
Of course the North Koreans are very proud to show the trophy from the evil "US-imperialists" to tourists nowadays.<br />
<br />
More information at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Pueblo_%28AGER-2%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Pueblo_(AGER-2)</a><br />
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Inside the ship I was first shown a short film, telling the North Korean view of the Pueblo-incident. Then I was taken for a tour on board of the ship.<br />
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An US-cryptographic machine:<br />
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<b>Kim Il Sung statue at Mansudae Hill</b><br />
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At the book & souvenir shop many books (in various languages) written by or about Kim Il Sung or Kim Jong Il are sold. It is said, that both of them wrote thousands of books….<br />
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Titles of some of the books:<br />
Kim Il Sung: "On Juche in our revolution"<br />
Kim Jong Il: "For the victory of the socialist case"<br />
Kim Jong Il: "The Songun-based revolutionary line is a great revolutionary line of our era and an ever victorious banner of our revolution"<br />
"In Memory of President Kim Il Sung: Eternal Sun of Mankind"<br />
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<br />
I only bought a pin with the North Korean flag, a map and a North Korean flag as souvenir, but no books, which I now regret. It would have been a good souvenir, although I'm not yet totally convinced of all that Juche- and Songun-stuff ;-)<br />
Maybe I will call my friends at the North Korean embassy in Vienna and ask, whether they can sell me some of that books…*g*<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Children's Palace:</b><br />
<br />
The Children's Palace is a place, where children go in the afternoon after school. Also free time and hobbies are organized by the party…<br />
Such places are said to exist everywhere in North Korea, but I'm sure that the others, which tourists don't see, are not that well-equipped.<br />
<br />
<br />
We were guided to a lot of different classes:<br />
<br />
Guitar:<br />
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<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3-O5BXW3eg">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3-O5BXW3eg</a><br />
<br />
Ping-pong:<br />
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<br />
I asked whether children can choose what they want to do. The answer was, that there is a test, to find out about the talents of the children, and according to that the options, which they have, are decided.<br />
<br />
Taekwondo:<br />
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I have to admit, that all the children are very talented, but that's also connected with hard work and drill…<br />
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The highlight was a music performance of some of the children on the stage:<br />
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<br />
<br />
That was the final part of our sightseeing program in North Korea. By the way, it was also planned that we visit the railway museum, but unfortunately it was closed for some reconstruction.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Farewell dinner</b><br />
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In the evening we had a farewell dinner with the guides and the driver at the Pyongyang Duck BBQ restaurant.<br />
The food was very tasty and it was a nice finish of our tip.<br />
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<br />
<br />
Our guides did the best to enable us a pleasant and interesting stay in Pyongyang. Sometimes it was a little bit too much Kimilsungism for us, as everything is in some way brought in connection with the Great and/or the Dear Leader. But that's what we expected and we always tried to respect their culture and mentality.<br />
So we had a good and friendly relationship with our guides and some interesting discussions with them.<br />
<br />
<br />
Pyongyang by night – photos taken from the hotel:<br />
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<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/train-trip-to-beijing-back-to-outside.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY WEBSITE ABOUT CHEAP TICKETS FOR THE TRANSSIBERIAN RAILWAY</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/">http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/</a>
Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-11981312750568688102008-09-23T09:38:00.000-07:002015-01-17T16:15:11.373-08:00The Demilitarized Zone<b>2008-09-23</b><br />
<br />
Programm for today:<br />
- drive to Panmunjom at the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)<br />
- lunch at Kaesong<br />
- Koryo-museum at Keasong<br />
- drive back to Pyongyang<br />
- metro museum<br />
- Kim Il Sung's birthplace at Mangyongdae (near Pyongyang)<br />
- dinner at a restaurant in Pyongyang<br />
<br />
View from our hotel room in the 21st floor:<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyY8P3v7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/Y8P3v7.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
On the island you can see the cinema, where the 11th Pyongyang International Film Festival was taking place during our stay in Pyongyang. Yes, there is indeed an international film festival in Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyongyang_Film_Festival">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyongyang_Film_Festival</a><br />
<a href="http://articles.latimes.com/2008/oct/11/world/fg-film11">http://articles.latimes.com/2008/oct/11/world/fg-film11</a><br />
<a href="http://www.gluckman.com/NKFilmFest.html">http://www.gluckman.com/NKFilmFest.html</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey9U2T8Lj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/9U2T8L.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exnkieG8j" target="_blank"></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Due to that our hotel was quite busy at that time; at least I cannot say – unlike I read in other NK-travelogues – , that I had the impression, that the hotel was totally empty and only maybe 3 of 40 floors were open…<br />
Especially in the morning there were lot's of people in the hotel lobby and also relatively long waiting times at the elevantors were not rare. And I had the impression, that also many North Koreans (high officials, of course) stayed at the hotel (alltough on other floors)… or were all of them guides for the foreigners? (our guides stayed at the hotel too during our trip).<br />
Once while waiting for the guides in the lobby I also small-talked with two Germans, who were presenting a film at the festival.<br />
<br />
We left for Panmunjom 30 minutes later than planned. The reason was, that our German speaking guide for the 1st two days got ill, and the "new" one who replaced him for the remaining two days had to accompany some tourists to the airport in the morning before meeting us.<br />
<br />
During the waiting time Oliver and I did an "on-the-spot-guidance" at the car park in fron the hotel. Several KITC tour-busses were waiting for the tourist groups.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exVgqQ6qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/VgqQ6q.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Also one "Kässbohrer Setra" bus was amongst the buses…<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exHgZ1csj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/HgZ1cs.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exHgZ1csj" target="_blank"></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The drive to the DMZ took about 2 hours. The highway was similar to that to Myohangsan but with more tunnels, as the area was quite hilly.<br />
It was noticeable that we got closer to the border, there were four checkpoints on the way there. But we only had to stop for a few seconds if at all.<br />
Also concrete columns next to the road were signs of the near border. In an emergency case they would fall down on the road to block the way for tanks from the South...<br />
<br />
I have no photos of them, but I found some here:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.4sync.com/web/get/s.dolya/blog/NorthKorea22/20080923_nkorea_521.jpg">http://www.4sync.com/web/get/s.dolya/blog/NorthKorea22/20080923_nkorea_521.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://www.4sync.com/web/get/s.dolya/blog/NorthKorea21/20080923_nkorea_488.jpg">http://www.4sync.com/web/get/s.dolya/blog/NorthKorea21/20080923_nkorea_488.jpg</a><br />
<br />
After the highway passes Kaesong it continues for a few more kilometers before it ends abruptly at the beginning of the DMZ. There is a even signpost saying "Seoul, 70 km"...<br />
<br />
The DMZ divides North and South Korea. It is 248 km long and about 4 km wide. It is usually impossible to cross the DMZ, but in the previous years tourists coming from South Korea could visit some areas in the North and then crossed the DMZ by bus over newly built roads. Tours were possible to the Kumgang mountain and to Kaesong. See <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumgang_mountain">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumgang_mountain</a>.<br />
Currently these tours are suspended due to the worsened relationshuip between the North and the South.<br />
Panmunjom was a village in the middle of the DMZ, where the ceasefire-agreement was signed in 1953. This place today is on the Norther side of the DMZ.<br />
At the demarcation line there is the "Joint Security Area", where today negotiations between the North and the South are held. Tourists can visit the JSA from the North and from the South, but of course it is not possible to cross the border here.<br />
<br />
More information:<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_Demarcation_Line_%28Korea%29">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_Demarcation_Line_(Korea)</a><br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panmunjom">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panmunjom</a><br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joint_Security_Area">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joint_Security_Area</a><br />
<br />
We had a short break at a car park at the entry to the DMZ. In one of the buildings we got a brief introduction into the place.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9WrtxEvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/WrtxEv.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
An overview map:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p19Xnt3qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/9Xnt3q.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The place where we were is on the bottom, in the middle you see the Joint Security Area (JSA) and between the house, where the cease-fire agreement was signed.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8bwkRvmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/bwkRvm.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The JSA:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipAmMq4jj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/AmMq4j.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The two Kim's are overlooking everything...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8w4ll68j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/w4ll68.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The entry to the DMZ:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip6nnVmzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/6nnVmz.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Of course it is not possible to drive into the DMZ without being accompanied by a soldier:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdKX5hoNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/KX5hoN.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Also these concrete cubes are meant to fall down on the road in an emergency case...<br />
<br />
<br />
Google Earth screenshot of the DMZ:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0KI6yQlj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/KI6yQl.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
The white lines mark the center line of the DMZ (the actual border) and the northern boundary. The southern boundary is not marked.<br />
To view this placemarks with Google Earth, download the kmz-file at <a href="http://www.nkeconwatch.com/north-korea-uncovered-google-earth/">http://www.nkeconwatch.com/north-korea-uncovered-google-earth/</a>.<br />
<br />
The entry to the DMZ:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5Tfqzy2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/Tfqzy2.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
After about 1,5 km we arrive at the house, where the cease-fire agreement was signed.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1fmzUFRp" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/fmzUFR.png" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idekFm2Sj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyNLrUcIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/NLrUcI.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Inside the house:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exridj4Qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ridj4Q.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id8W7JdCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/8W7JdC.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Then we continued to the Joint Security Area.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idekFm2Sj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/ekFm2S.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The JSA actually is located in the southern side of the DMZ, but there is a narrow "Northern" corridor into it: <a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdgRub2Fj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/gRub2F.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyioAgdAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ioAgdA.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
And here we are:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex2aom0mj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/2aom0m.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipOOYmiTj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/OOYmiT.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The buildings in the foreground stand exactly on the border. The big building in the background is already in the South.<br />
<br />
Inside the buildings it is possible to cross the border line. The door to the south is closed and guarded by North Korean soldiers. <a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4JSl8Itj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/JSl8It.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The typical tourist-photo…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idwQBLWSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/wQBLWS.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
It was a quite strange feeling to be at one moment so close and so far to the "outside" world. Just running between to houses to the south would be no good idea…<br />
<br />
After some days as a tourist in North Korea one feels already a little bit caged. You don't have your passport with you and you know that you totally depend on your host country. You can't just go to the station or airport and buy a ticket and leave the country whenever you want.<br />
Of course there are usually no problems for tourists in North Korea and of course I know, that also other every country can prevent you from leaving the country. But here at the DMZ you get remembered, that you are in a closed country.<br />
And also it's hard to believe that basically it is one country on both sides of the DMZ. The seperation already lasts for more than 60 years and the two systems are now totally different. Standing here at the DMZ it's very difficult to imagine how a re-unification of the two Koreas can happen…<br />
<br />
However, the genarl atmosphere here was more relaxed then expected. There were no strict security checks (I read that this is different if youz visit the DMZ from the south) and also the fact, that no soldiers on the southern side were visible contribute to the relatively relaxed impression.<br />
<br />
We were also not the only tourists there. We also met some tourists from Russia, one of them also published his photos on the web. See <a href="http://sergeydolya.livejournal.com/20101.html">http://sergeydolya.livejournal.com/20101.html</a> for his version of the visit to the DMZ (with some excellent photos).<br />
There were however no tourists on the Southern side. We asked the soldier about this (the guide translated), he said, that usually in tourists from the north visit in the morning and tourists from the south in the afternoon.<br />
<br />
Overview from the roof of the administration building:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f00mcuOpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/0mcuOp.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0tFVew2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/tFVew2.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyy3TRIkj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/y3TRIk.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
At the Northern end of the DMZ the highway to Pyongyang starts:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyQ1d8cQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/Q1d8cQ.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The newly built but still "under-used" highway which crosses the DMZ is located some kilometers in the south.<br />
Also the railway line crossing the border was reconstructed. The first train crossed the border in may 2007. See <a href="http://www.dailynk.com/english/read.php?cataId=nk03100&num=2086">http://www.dailynk.com/english/read.php?cataId=nk03100&num=2086</a><br />
As far as I know the line has since then been used for freight trains to the Kaesong Instrual Park (see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaesong_Industrial_Park">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaesong_Industrial_Park</a>), but recently this trains stopped due to the worsened relationship between the North and the South. There were however no regular passenger trains.<br />
<br />
We then drove to Kaesong and had lunch at a restaurant.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5o572tbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/o572tb.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
A group of South Korean nuns on their visit to Kaesong:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idSkBeKKj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipOYfO9Ij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/OYfO9I.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I wonder that they were allowed to make a tour to North Korea, as the North Korean regime does all to prevent any Christian influence to their citizen (owining a bible is strictly forbidden).<br />
<br />
<br />
After lunch we visited the Koryo museum (<a href="http://www.northkorea1on1.com/attractions.cfm?aid=kaekoryomus">http://www.northkorea1on1.com/attractions.cfm?aid=kaekoryomus</a>), where ancient relics from the Koryo period (918 AD – 1392 AD) are shown.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idSkBeKKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/SkBeKK.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exxe9DDSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/xe9DDS.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbAtoARmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/AtoARm.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Hipdo4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Hipdo4.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyszMBmhj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/szMBmh.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
As we had some delay in our today's schedule, we had to rush through the interestung museum.<br />
<br />
On the way back to Pyongyang we made a break at a highway rest stop, where we bought some mineral water and also the North Korean version of Coca Cola.<br />
<br />
North Korean "AutoGrill":<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pabplrQOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/bplrQO.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
At around 16:15 we were back in Pyongyang – "rush hour" on the roads:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcwgedAQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/wgedAQ.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
Visit to the metro museum:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exZOZxP3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ZOZxP3.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
The museum is quite interesting, alltough it's mostly about the "on-the-spot-guidances" by Kim Il Sung during the construction period.<br />
<br />
The stars on this map show, how many times Kim Il Sung gave "on-the-spot-guidance" to the constrcution of the station concerned: <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyFQRcWNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/FQRcWN.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
--<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5F8pKayj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/F8pKay.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Kim Il Sung's special vehicle to go down to the construction site (using the tunnels which were after completion used for the escalators):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyElCrQzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ElCrQz.jpg" /></a></div>
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--<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f05xu242j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/5xu242.jpg" /></a></div>
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An impressive diorama:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj6aGJrEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/6aGJrE.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5UAn8VOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/UAn8VO.jpg" /></a></div>
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Railbus for the "on-the-spot-guidance":<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/i15p.jpg/" target="_blank"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
</a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/i15p.jpg/" target="_blank">
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/i15p.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipfBxp35j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/fBxp35.jpg" /></a></div>
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/834/i15p.jpg/" target="_blank">
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<br />
Another dioarama:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iphaJHpnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/haJHpn.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id0M6HCpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/0M6HCp.jpg" /></a></div>
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--<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipDa190kj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Da190k.jpg" /></a></div>
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Model of the "mission controll center":<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idOvCkU9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/OvCkU9.jpg" /></a></div>
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Model of a metro train (on of the Chinese built original trains, nowadays trains bought 2nd hand from Berlin are in use):<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipkE47D4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/kE47D4.jpg" /></a></div>
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Map of the metro network:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hla5EjS8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/a5EjS8.jpg" /></a></div>
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The green lines show the planned routes.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9HUWlLyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/HUWlLy.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />
See <a href="http://www.pyongyang-metro.com/">http://www.pyongyang-metro.com/</a> for more information about the Pyongyang metro.<br />
<br />
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Monument outside the museum:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exiDJl4oj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/iDJl4o.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
The next agenda highlight was Mangyongdae, the birth place of Kim Il Sung, just outside of Pyongyang.<br />
<br />
As already told, a significant part of the Pyongyang tramway network was closed for reconstruction during our visit:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip1ncA4Ej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/1ncA4E.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0uYysNLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/uYysNL.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The construction method using concrete cubes reminded me of something....<br />
<a href="http://www.railfaneurope.net/pix/at/trams/Graz/track/line_6/2004-08-10/Bild_047.jpg">http://www.railfaneurope.net/pix/at/trams/Graz/track/line_6/2004-08-10/Bild_047.jpg</a><br />
(tramway reconstruction in my hometown Graz, august 2004)<br />
<br />
Tramway:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlo866Ppj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/o866Pp.jpg" /></a></div>
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Finally we arrived at the house, where Kim Il Sung was born and spent his first years: <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0nlkwKIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/nlkwKI.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
Amongst the visitors were this two Korean families:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0JP7fDOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/JP7fDO.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7YBOUxEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/YBOUxE.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<br />
Probably they don't represent the average North Korean family, I'm sure they belong to the upper class. But what was interesting, was the fact, that the children had caps with "Mickey"-mouse on it…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipJXSMcDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/JXSMcD.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
…and I thought everything American was forbidden… ok, but on the other hand, the Hollywood-movie "Titanic" was also shown in North Korea...<br />
<br />
From a hill nearby we had a great view to Pyongyang:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcHqc9kyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/Hqc9ky.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9X0ZLwqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/X0ZLwq.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p72advcOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/2advcO.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipmdxMGqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/mdxMGq.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/4ujk.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<br />
After that we had dinner in a restaurant (including a 20 second power blackout ;-) and then drove back to the hotel.<br />
<br />
Dinner:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/padFd07Hj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/dFd07H.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
At the "Arch of Triumph" I asked for a short photo stop:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Q08dOSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Q08dOS.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipmdxMGqj" target="_blank"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
</a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipmdxMGqj" target="_blank">
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipIGYxIAj" target="_blank"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipmdxMGqj" target="_blank">
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<br />
We then had a beer together with our guides at the hotel bar before going to sleep.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/04/pyongyang-metro-childrens-palace-etc.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
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<br />
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<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-28558063359775326532008-09-22T08:19:00.000-07:002015-01-17T16:04:56.638-08:00"Arirang" games and more<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-22</span><br />
<br />
The Hyangsan hotel:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idCsierXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/CsierX.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjvqyxZHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/vqyxZH.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbXC7ZT1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/XC7ZT1.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4DYSZyKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/DYSZyK.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0unYJCLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/unYJCL.jpg" /></a><br />
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After breakfast we visited the Pohyon temple. It is said to be one of the few remaining practising Buddhist temples left in North Korea. However, I can’t guarantee whether the monks are “real” or just for tourists...<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4DYSZyKj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p51I58B8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/1I58B8.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idfWBf9Nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/fWBf9N.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idUglltwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/Uglltw.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p92gaQShj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/2gaQSh.jpg" /></a>
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Our guide at the museum:<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyfZzjMUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/fZzjMU.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f01oZi5lj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/1oZi5l.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We then drove to the „International Friendship exhibition“ – an exhibition, were all foreign presents received by Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il are shown.<br />
The exhibition is located in two buildings, both are built deep into the mountains.<br />
First we visited the building dedicated to Kim Il Sung. Taking photos inside is not allowed and everybody has to wear special cloth shoes over the normal shoes, to not contaminate the holy place...<br />
We were guided from one room to another, and wandered along endless corridors together with our tour guides and a local guide. Each room was dedicated for presents from a specific country or region. There was no time to visit every room, but of course we were shown the rooms which contained presents from Austria and Switzerland. Most presents from Austria and Switzerland were typical tourist-souvenirs, usually received from various left-minded organizations (e.g. from the Austrian Communist Party, from the "Gewerkschaftlicher Linksblock" (Trade-union left block) and so on).<br />
One room contained a life-size wax figure of Kim Il Sung, of course we had to bow in front of it. Most presents were of course from former socialist countries, but there were also many presents from Arabic and African countries.<br />
The exhibition with the presents for Kim Jong Il was similar, but smaller (20.000 gifts instead of 70.000 gifts for Kim Il Sung).<br />
There were many other visitors at the exhibitions, most of them were North Koreans. They are brought there to see how popular Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il are in the outside world...<br />
Two photos taken from the Kim-Jong-Il exhibition building:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f01oZi5lj" target="_blank"></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1UZZYr8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/UZZYr8.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9RKVFVzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/RKVFVz.jpg" /></a><br />
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Some other reports about the "International Friendship Exhibition":<br />
<a href="http://www.gluckman.com/NKGift.html">http://www.gluckman.com/NKGift.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/dprk02/day5.htm">http://www.geocities.com/dprk02/day5.htm</a><br />
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After lunch at the hotel we drove back to Pyongyang. At about 15:30 we arrived at the "Korean War Museum". Of course it showed the North Korean view about the war, but it was a quite impressive museum, especially the detailed 3D-dioramas of some of the battles were interesting.<br />
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At the entry hall of the museum:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9RKVFVzj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcLFKROnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/LFKROn.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idzDP6Ikj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/zDP6Ik.jpg" /></a>
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Our museum guide:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdhPpXOVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/hPpXOV.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjKWisATj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/KWisAT.jpg" /></a><br />
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A North Korean MIG-15:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjKWisATj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdx8qYGqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/x8qYGq.jpg" /></a><br />
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The North Koreans are especially proud about shot American figher aircrafts. The rest of them are shown at the museum:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdx8qYGqj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idkj4ivaj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/kj4iva.jpg" /></a>
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One of the impressive dioramas:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdMAPUJoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/MAPUJo.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idkj4ivaj" target="_blank"><br /></a> <br />
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It was not easy to see where the 3D-model ends and the 2D-background painting begins.<br />
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From the museum we drove to a school, to watch a childrens music performance. On the way we followed a tram route. During our stay in Pyongyang many tram routes were under reconstruction.<br />
A photo takem from our car:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p17e1nnoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/7e1nno.jpg" /></a><br />
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Another stretch of the tram-network was operational, here two photos of trams (also taken from the car while driving):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pciVwbQKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/iVwbQK.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyR3XcVoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/R3XcVo.jpg" /></a>
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The school:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p14JYnRbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/4JYnRb.jpg" /></a><br />
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The performance:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyO7rW1vj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/O7rW1v.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyNnyFsVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/NnyFsV.jpg" /></a>
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The children were quite good. Most other visitors were tourists from China (and/or other Asian countries) and after the performance the children received some flowers and gifts and a photo-shooting with tourists took place on the stage:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idIepVHIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/IepVHI.jpg" /></a>
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The next item of the agenda was the dinner at a restaurant. When we arrived there, I could take another tramway photo:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbp5VVJvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/p5VVJv.jpg" /></a>
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North Korean tourist restaurants are a strange thing. Tourist buses are parking in front of it and everything is organized in advance. Usually we and our guides sat in a separate room with only one table. There were usually no windows to watch what is going on outside on the street. There were other rooms for bigger tourist groups. I don't know, whether such restaurants are accessible for ordinary North Koreans, but if so, I'm sure that there is a special room for them.<br />
We have not found out, whether apart from those tourist restaurants other ordinary restaurants, cafes or bars exist in Pyongyang; it would be too interesting to visit such places...<br />
<br />
In the evening we watched the "Arirang"-performance in the May-Day-Stadium. It is the largest stadium in world (up to 150.000 seats), see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rungrado_May_Day_Stadium<br />
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Whereas it was already dark around (no street lights, only some light from inside the houses), the stadium was brightly illuminated.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8voI9Wzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/voI9Wz.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ippECaQMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/pECaQM.jpg" /></a>
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The "Arirang"-performance is a brilliant gymnastic and artistic performance, shown daily during some weeks in autumn. The entry is not included in the tour-price, tickets for tourists are available from 40 EUR (payable to the guides). I absolutely recommend to watch the "Arirang"-performance! The show takes about 1,5 hours and consists of various sessions of about five minutes. Each is dedicated to s specific topic (e.g. happy children in the DPRK, re-unification of Korea, economic progress in the DPRK) and so on. Up to 100.000 artists create moving pictures connected to the topic. Of course it is accompanied by music and also laser-shows are part of the spectacle.<br />
Some sessions contain very spectacular artistic performances, e.g. people floating through the stadium high above the ground fixed to an invisible rope and then jumping down...<br />
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Some impressions of the great show:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paQ9ajT7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/Q9ajT7.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exQrNAZnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/QrNAZn.jpg" /></a>
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Each background picture is created by about 40.000 childrens holding tables containing pages with different pictures/colours. When they simultaneously turn over the pages, the background image changes.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exw2BFluj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/w2BFlu.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7hdy6ybj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/hdy6yb.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exc5RBuLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/c5RBuL.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4ImjT14j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/ImjT14.jpg" /></a>
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Separation of the country…<br />
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A video of the last session of the great show:<br />
<a href="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=IXTa0d1Azbo">http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=IXTa0d1Azbo</a><br />
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Some more videos:<br />
<a href="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rzEvF2oev80">http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rzEvF2oev80</a><br />
<a href="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=UwMg4DpCsdc"><br />http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=UwMg4DpCsdc</a><br />
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<a href="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=paEHsKQ_zi0">http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=paEHsKQ_zi0</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: 180%;"><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/demilitarized-zone.html" style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</a></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a>
</div>Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-35067746248058988942008-09-21T11:53:00.000-07:002015-01-17T16:19:54.832-08:00Pyongyang and Mt. Myohyang<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-21</span><br />
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Programm for that day:<br />
- breakfast<br />- Kumsusan Memorial Palace (Kim Il Sung mausoleum)<br />- Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery<br />- Book&stamp shop<br />- lunch at the Yanggakdo hotel<br />- drive to Myohyang mountains<br />- Check in Hyangsan hotel<br />- little hiking trip in the Manpok valley<br />- Diner at Hyangsan hotel<br />
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Morning view from our room. The railway bridge over the Tadeong-river can be seen in the fog.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idVHXhpXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/VHXhpX.jpg" /></a>
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The breakfast at the hotel was quite good, there was a buffet and even imported "Darbo"-jam from Stans in Tirol (Austria) was available…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exnkieG8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/nkieG8.jpg" /></a><br />
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After the long train trip across North Korea, during which we got an impression of real North Korean life, the luxury here at the hotel was a big contrast...<br />
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At 8:30 we met our guides and drove to the Kumsusan Memorial Palace. It was the official residence of Kim Il Sung untill he died in 1994. Then Kim Jong Il, his son, decided to transfer it into a mausoleum for Kim Il Sung.<br />
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Taking photos are not allowed inside the mausoleum. There were hordes of North Korean waiting to see the Great Leader and also some foreign tourists. Foreign tourists and their guides were privleged and didn't had to wait.<br />
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The building is really huge and we walked through long corridors. Everything is very clean and bright, escalators are working and music like this <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DW1jmWuvh2o">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DW1jmWuvh2o</a> is coming from the loudspeakers. No doubt that this is the most sacred place in North Korea.<br />
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Before seeing Kim Il Sungs embalmed body we passed some other rooms. In one of them all decorations and certificates received by Kim Il Sung are exhibited. The items are sorted according to origin: domestic, from Europe, from Africa etc.<br />
This is to show the North Korean people that the Great Leader was honored everywhere in the world. Most official decorations he received from other communist states and their leaders (Erich Honecker, Fidel Castro, Nicolae Ceausescu...). However, there were also some decorations or certificate from various organizations, universities, parties in Western countries. Also a certificate from an university in the United States... (don't remember which university). We were also given earphones and heared that the whole world was shocked after Kim Il Sung died in 1994 and that there was mourning all over the world...hmmm<br />
Finally we went to the main-room of the mausoleum. The guides told us how to behave, how to walk, where to put or not to put the arms and so on and that we would have to make three bows for the Great Leader.<br />
That's what we then did when we were in the big room, in which there is the clear sarcophagus with the body of Kim Il Sung inside. One bow in front of the sarcophagus, then one at the left side and then the last on the right side.<br />
After that we passed to two other rooms, where Kim Il Sungs car and his special waggon were exhibited.<br />
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Outside again, we could take some photos of the impressive building.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idweiEiYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/weiEiY.jpg" /></a> <br />
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North Koreans posing for a group photo:<br />
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So, now only the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum in Hanoi is missing in my "personal collection" of mausoleums with embalmed corpses of state founding leaders (there are four such mausoleums in the world)!<br />
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Unfortunately it was not possible to use the tram line to get to the mausoleum and back. This meter-gauge tramway line is not connected to the ordinary tramway network and it's only purpose is to bring visitors to the Kumsusam Memorial Palace. Old trams from Zurich are used on this line. The guides said, that only bigger groups of foreign tourists can use the tramway (in a seperate train, I assume).<br />
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However, we asked our guides whether we could at least take some photos at the terminal stop near the mausoleum. After a short tolk with an officer the guide said, that we were allowed to take some photos...<br />
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Then we drove to the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery on mount Taesong. The guides told us the stories of some of the North Koreahtn heroes buried there.<br />
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We also were asked to buy some flowers for 2 EUR and lay them down at the bust of Anti-Japanese war hero Kim Jong Suk (= Kim Il Sung's wife):<br />
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The day after our visit was the 59th anniversary of her death, which explains the quantity of flowers and wreaths.<br />
</a><a href="http://www.kcna.co.jp/item/2008/200809/news09/23.htm"><br />http://www.kcna.co.jp/item/2008/200809/news09/23.htm</a> writes:<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">High Tribute to Kim Jong Suk Paid</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Pyongyang, September 22 (KCNA) -- Wreaths were laid before the bust of anti-Japanese war hero Kim Jong Suk at the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery on Mt. Taesong on Monday on the occasion of the 59th anniversary of her demise.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Seen before the bust was a wreath from Kim Jong Il, general secretary of the Workers' Party of Korea, chairman of the DPRK National Defence Commission and supreme commander of the Korean People's Army.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Attending the wreath-laying ceremony were senior party, army and state officials, the chairperson of a friendly party, leading officials of party, armed forces and power bodies, working people's organizations, ministries and national institutions, servicepersons and working people and schoolchildren in the city of Pyongyang.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Placed before the bust amidst playing of the wreath-laying music were wreaths in the name of the WPK Central Committee, the Presidium of the DPRK Supreme People's Assembly and the DPRK Cabinet.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Also laid were wreaths in the name of the Ministry of the People's Armed Forces, working people's organizations, ministries and national institutions, KPA units, educational, cultural and art, public health and press organs, the joint national organizations of the Korean Children's Union, and party and power bodies, factories and farms in Pyongyang.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">The participants paid silent tribute to Kim Jong Suk, looking back upon her noble revolutionary life and immortal exploits.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Meanwhile, floral baskets were placed before her statues in Kim Jong Suk County and Hoeryong City and at Kim Jong Suk Naval Academy and Kim Jong Suk General Military School on the same occasion.</span><br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">People Remember Kim Jong Suk's Brilliant Life</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Pyongyang, September 22 (KCNA) -- An endless stream of servicepersons, people from all walks of life and school youth and children is visiting the bust of Kim Jong Suk, an anti-Japanese war hero and woman commander of Mt. Paektu, in the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery on Mt. Taesong and the revolutionary sites and revolutionary battle sites associated with her undying feats across the country in September on the occasion of the 59th anniversary of her death.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">The number of visitors reached more than 500,000 as of Sept. 21.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">This is a manifestation of the iron faith and will of the army and people to hold in high esteem forever Kim Jong Suk, supreme incarnation of devotedly defending the leader who gave a steady continuity to the Songun revolution and dedicated her all to the country and the revolution.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Senior party, army and state officials and over 200,000 servicepersons, people from all walks of life and school youth and children visited the Revolutionary Martyrs Cemetery on Mt. Taesong to pay high tribute to Kim Jong Suk. The cemetery was also visited by a great number of overseas compatriots and foreigners.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Many people of different social standings have visited the revolutionary sites in North Hamgyong Province, including the time-honored Hoeryong Revolutionary Site, Kim Jong Suk's birthplace, and revolutionary sites and revolutionary battle sites in Ryanggang, South Hamgyong and Jagang provinces, looking back with deep emotion upon her brilliant revolutionary career.</span><br />
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Then we drove to a stamps shop. Typicial street in Pyongyang:<br />
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We were the only clients at the shop. I bought a t-shirt with the North Korean flag and the slogan "See you in Pyongyang" on it, as well as a book with transport-related stamps. Very interesting, that also foreign trains were shown on the stamps:<br />
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Back at the hotel we had lunch at the revolving restaurant on the top of it (on the 41st floor or so). The view was great alltough the revolving was switched off (maybe to save power...)<br />
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The main station seen from Yanggakdo hotel:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idIjR9iJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/IjR9iJ.jpg" /></a><br />
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The famous unfinished Ryugyong hotel ( <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ryugyong_Hotel">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ryugyong_Hotel</a> ):<br />
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The skyline of Pyongyang:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idyDn8Rvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/yDn8Rv.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0zBkJ2Ej" target="_blank"></a><br />
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Juche-tower:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paXcHrZ4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/XcHrZ4.jpg" /></a> <br />
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Our room on the 21st floor:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0zBkJ2Ej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/zBkJ2E.jpg" /></a> <br />
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At 14:00 we left the hotel and drove to the Myohyang-mountains, about 120 km (as the crow flies) north of Pyongyang. See <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myohyang-san">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myohyang-san</a><br />
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Driving through Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj9pPVV3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/9pPVV3.jpg" /></a><br />
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Highway to Hyangsan:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1ylxT15j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/ylxT15.jpg" /></a> <br />
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Tunnel:<br />
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youtube-video of our car ride on the highway:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJRKisjboVE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJRKisjboVE</a><br />
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There was of course no light inside the tunnel. As far as I know the North Korean highways were built in the 1990ies, but they are already in a relatively bad state. The bumpy asfalt doesn't allow speeds much over 100 km/h.<br />
Traffic is scarce, we only see some tourist busses, some military trucks and very few "private" cars (maybe owned by high party members). However, North Korea is the first country in the world, which has adapted the "shared-space" concept ( <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shared_space">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shared_space</a> ) also for highways: They are used by cars, bycicles and pedestrians!<br />
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During the trip we also saw some railway lines and trains, but due to the bumpy ride taking photos was quite a difficult task.<br />
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Railway bridge used by pedestrians:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idAu3QHOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/Au3QHO.jpg" /></a>
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After 2 hours we arrived at the Hyangsan hote – view from our room:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0S47QHGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/S47QHG.jpg" /></a>
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After a short break we drive to the start of the hiking trail "Manpok valley". Together with one of the two guides we walk up to a small pavillon . The trail was very scenic and leads to some waterfalls. However, there was only few water due to the season, but is was nevertheless beautiful.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlwHKO3Qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/wHKO3Q.jpg" /></a>
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As it was already late, there were only a few other people on the trail, we only met some North Korean tourists:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exR3ABTGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/R3ABTG.jpg" /></a>
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Me and our guide:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p72H221Hj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/2H221H.jpg" /></a>
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But also here in the nature the two Kims were omnipresent: On some rocks there were inscriptions, which mean something like "Or Leader Kim Jong Il (or Kim Il Sung) ordered, that this beautiful piece of nature should be preserved and made accesible for people...<br />
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When we returned to the car, it was already quite dark. We drove back to the hotel and had dinner.<br />
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BTW, during the car ride we noticed, that there was a 2nd road in this valley. We passed under it once, but there seemed to be no connection with the road we used. Very strange.<br />
Also at the entry to the valley we saw a railway line, but then in the valley we saw no further evidence of it. Also strange.<br />
We already knew, that there were such strange things in North Korea, so we kept our eyes open...<br />
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After I returned to Austria, I had to look at GoogleEarth and I found out that the 2nd road leads over many serpentines to the Hyangsan-chalet, a former residence of Kim Il Sung and the place, where he died in 1994. So was the road some kind of special elite-road and therefore seperated from the ordinary road? See also <a href="http://www.dailynk.com/english/read.php?cataId=nk02300&num=83">http://www.dailynk.com/english/read.php?cataId=nk02300&num=83</a><br />
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And the railway line, branching off the Kaechon – Kanggye line indeed ends only after a few meters at a so called "elite station" (according to the NorthKorea Uncovered overlay for GE), where the elite eventually transferred from train to car to get to the Hyangsan-chalet?<br />
However, I also heared that earlier foreign tourists travelled to Mt. Myohang by train, so maybe they also used this station with special trains for tourists?<br />
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<span style="font-size: 180%;"><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/arirang-games-and-more.html" style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</a></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-53510711195377444632008-09-20T11:52:00.000-07:002018-11-03T05:50:37.294-07:00By train across North Korea (2/2)<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red;">Download the kmz-file for GoogleEarth to follow our route inside North Korea and see, where the photos were taken. Most of my photos from inside North Korea are now on GoogleEarth.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-7086884/Vienna---Tumangan---Pyongyang-2008.kmz.html"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">DOWNLOAD HERE (~50 kB)</span></a></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exrREqz9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/rREqz9.jpg"></a>
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9:51 – passing a small station:</div>
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Kim Il Sung and an obelisk, next to which some kind of meeting was held…</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idfz2rHWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/fz2rHW.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbLwv1zxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/Lwv1zx.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey191AFvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/191AFv.jpg"></a>
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Train video with much and loud "tatak-tatak" at maybe 30 km/h...</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umQrTFMOMvg">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umQrTFMOMvg</a></div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5BnvItmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/BnvItm.jpg"></a>
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There are many tunnels en-route, and all are guarded by female soldiers...</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyyjKx05j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/yjKx05.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id4yzfTNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/4yzfTN.jpg"></a>
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Propaganda?</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex9q0QUfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/9q0QUf.jpg"></a>
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More "tatak-tatak" another train/landscape video:</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7k8u00zalY">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7k8u00zalY</a></div>
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Station Kuum-ni (arr 10:11, dep ~10:22)</div>
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River crossing just south of Kuum-ni:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyqdIuXXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/qdIuXX.jpg"></a>
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10:28 - Passing another passenger train:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyXsc0Rfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/Xsc0Rf.jpg"></a>
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Seating car with pantograph:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0CoYiULj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/CoYiUL.jpg"></a>
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Considering the number of other trains we met, one cannot say that railway traffic in North Korea is in total disorder and in it’s last throes. Trains are running and during our trip from Tumangan to Pyongyang there were obviously no problems with electricity supply for the catenary. Only once we stopped for 5 minutes in the middle of nowhere, but that might have been caused also by something else. However, the tracks are in bad condition, that causes the delay.</div>
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Freight trains where quite rare and relatively short (passing tracks at stations have usually a length of 400-500 meters according to Google Earth (…what would I do without Google Earth???)), so freight traffic inside North Korea might indeed be very low. And we saw less factories than expected considering our experiences in other former Socialist states. The main economic activity in North Korea seemed to be still agriculture.</div>
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Kim Il Sung:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0YrmFmCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/YrmFmC.jpg"></a>
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The railway line sometimes follows the coast, then again – when the shore is too rocky –</div>
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goes in the hinterland for some kilometers and climbs up the hills and then comes back down to the coast and so on.</div>
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Eastern Sea (Japanese Sea) again (11:10):</div>
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Due to the beautiful landscape tourism could boom, if there weren't so many restrictions…</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyKuCGBLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/KuCGBL.jpg"></a>
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An ox-kart:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paGTEJnWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/GTEJnW.jpg"></a>
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It was visible that the people are relatively poor. We often saw people washing their clothes in rivers – many houses don't seem to have water supply, let alone electricity. Now it was september and still warm, but we could imagine how hard life is here in the bitterly cold winter.</div>
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However, we saw nobody who was visibly underfed. OK, those who are, would probably not walk around.</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyMYZdLQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/MYZdLQ.jpg"></a>
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Approaching a small bridge (11:30) between Kuum-ni and Soho-ri:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Z2bx7Jj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Z2bx7J.jpg"></a>
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Lake south of Soho-ri:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exeE5YY1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/eE5YY1.jpg"></a>
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Propaganda inscription...</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipuizaLgj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/uizaLg.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f08Vo6Xqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/8Vo6Xq.jpg"></a></div>
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Semaphore:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0m1h6r3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/m1h6r3.jpg"></a> </div>
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At Yuktae-dong east station (there are two stations in this town, I decided to call them "east" and "west") we saw this 8-axle freight wagon (12:53):</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exrf3wCyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/rf3wCy.jpg"></a> </div>
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Another freight wagon at the same station:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idodeWSej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/odeWSe.jpg"></a> </div>
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At Yuktae-dong west station (13:09):</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Ua2qLsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Ua2qLs.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paEJr3svj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/EJr3sv.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbZe8Iwcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/Ze8Iwc.jpg"></a>
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Our train stopped in one of these stations, but I don't rember which and also the time of the photos doesn't tell it exactly.</div>
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I'm not sure whether it was here or elsewhere, but at one station I saw a woman who ran to the locomotive, opened the door, put their suitcase in and then boarded herself. Maybe she had no valid travel documents and instead payed the engine drivers to take her?</div>
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Next to Yuktae-dong west station:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idi1wY9Yj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/i1wY9Y.jpg"></a>
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13:13 – passing a small station west of Yuktae-dong</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p372xZgMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/903/72xZgM.jpg"></a> </div>
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13:20 – the next station…</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1t3vRC9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/t3vRC9.jpg"></a>
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Parked passenger cars: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Stop at Hongwon (~13:45):</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbV7fBhXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/V7fBhX.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0AiiTP7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/AiiTP7.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exJjmNpjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/JjmNpj.jpg"></a>
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During the train trip sometimes other railway staff from the train came to our sleeping-car. At lunch time two North Korean "provodnizas" (BTW, I have to admit that many North Korean women are quite attractivel) had lunch together with our conductors. Together they also did something with the boxes stored everywhere in the sleeping-car. Maybe they had "ordered" some items from Russia and now received them.</div>
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I think the conductors of this sleeping-car have a relatively good life. They can see the outside-world, don't have to work really hard (most time they were eating, playing cards or sleeping) and can earn some extra money...</div>
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Typical road traffic:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip6gyCpGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/6gyCpG.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyl8G8kIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/l8G8kI.jpg"></a>
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Road traffic was scarce and existed primarily in form of lorries and tractors. Hardly no passenger cars were visible.</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exmhnKjSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/mhnKjS.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4czrzySj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/czrzyS.jpg"></a>
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Endless rice fields:</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipR0Axkoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/R0Axko.jpg"></a>
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Freight train (15:30):</div>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0P7THZoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/P7THZo.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exwcGEwyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/wcGEwy.jpg"></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idxS2YbHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/xS2YbH.jpg"></a>
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Houses near Hamchun:</div>
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Station Hamchun (~15:55, scheduled 12:04 – 12:28)</div>
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Local people, who saw us at stations, were at the 1st moment quite surprised, but then usually didn't care.</div>
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When somewhere in the countryside people, who were walking or working on the fields next to the railway, saw us looking out of the passing train, unbelieving amazement was their reaction and often the told other people standing next to them, that there is something sensational to see and pointed to us…</div>
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We then often waved to them and they waved back and laughed, especially if they were children.</div>
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However, I also saw children who were using the railway as playground. Some maybe five year old children were running close to the train and throwing stones to it. Fortunately nothing happened, but it really looked dangerous and I can imagine that terrible accidents, at which playing children are hit by trains, sometimes happen...</div>
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Electric shunter about one hour after Hamchun:</div>
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We noticed that the water of the rivers was relatively clean and that hardly no waste was lying around. That's the advantage of an underdeveloped country…</div>
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One more train video:</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPAFflmOArM">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPAFflmOArM</a></div>
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Freight train (17:39)</div>
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An elektrichka? (elektrichka = Russian word for suburban train) (17:55)</div>
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At Kovon (arr. 18:14, dep. 18:27; scheduled: 14:20 – 14:41, 215 more kilometres till Pyongyang):</div>
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The timetable attached on the corridor of our sleeping car. It covers only the Russian part of the trip and ends at Khasan:</div>
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At Kovon the "coastal" mainline from Tumangan to Wonsan and beyond meets the mainline from Pyongyang. The line from Pyongyang is connected to both ends of the station, meaning that no trains have to change direction here. All three lines are single-track and electrified.<br />
The locomotive of our train was nevertheless exchanged here – the 1st time during that day and maybe since Tumangan.<br />
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Unfortunately it was too dark to take photos during the further trip to Pyongyang. The line was very scenic, it was a real mountain line. The train climbed up following a narrow valley. We passed many tunnels and bridges and after some time we noticed a clear sky above us. The weather was cloudy only close to the sea, here in the mountains it was perfect.<br />
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We finally crossed the mountain ridge through a longer tunnel. Outside it was already totally dark. The notorious Yodok concentration camp (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yodok_concentration_camp">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yodok_concentration_camp</a>) is said to be located somewhere here, according to Google Earth we were as close as 30 kilometers to it...<br />
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We stopped at Yangdok station at 21:15, then at Sinsongchon (22:20) and arrived at Sunchon at 23:27. The towns seemed to have electricity as we noticed light inside the houses (not very bright however, I heared that in North Korea only 40-watt bulbs are available). But there were no street lights and no lights on the platforms. Railway staff used LED torch lights for orientation.<br />
Departure from Sunchon was at 23:36. According to our map the distance to Pyongyang was about 60 kilometers. We expected to arrive at Pyongyang at about 1:30 and decided to get some sleep.<br />
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We woke up again, when one conductor knocked on our door and said "Pyongyang, Pyongyang". Five minutes later we arrived at Pyongyang main station. I don't remember the exact time, but it was about 2:15.<br />
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It was the end of a 13.000 kilometer long train trip, which took 13 days 8 hours and 30 minutes and during which I crossed four borders and experienced gauge-changing two times...<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipKzyj9Uj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Kzyj9U.jpg"></a> <br />
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We already saw two persons waiting on the platform, they seemed to be our guides. But we still had to pack our luggage. The conductors and the other passengers were hectically unloading all those packages and boxes. After we gathered all our belongings it was quite difficult to leave the sleeping-car as many of those boxes were standing on the corridor.<br />
Finally on the platform we said goodbye to the conductosr and made our way through the crowd to our guides. They welcomed us and we excused for the delay and the arrival in the middle of the night. One of the guides spoke German, the other spoke English.<br />
The train from Tumangan arrived on platform two, whereas the train from Beijing via Sinuiju usually arrives and departs on platform one, the high one which allows boarding without steps. Pyongyang was also the only North Korean station on our trip with some weak light on the platform.<br />
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We were guided over track one to a special exit in the station building where we had to show our tickets. Through a corridor in the building we came to the square in front of the station, where our car (a Toyota-minibus) and its driver were waiting. We were the only passengers using this station exit and I assume that there is another station exit for North Koreans, where they have to show their papers allowing the trip to Pyongyang.<br />
The German speeking guide asked us, how we bought our tickets and who recommended us this route, we answered that we found out about this route and bought the tickets ourselve.<br />
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We then drove to the "Yanggakdo"-hotel (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yanggakdo_Hotel">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yanggakdo_Hotel</a>), located on an island in the middle of the Taedong-river. The main station is very close to it. Of course the street lights weren't switched on. At the island we branched off the main road and continued to the hotel. The hotel area was fenced off and the gate was already closed. After some time it opened and we could drive to the hotel. We checked in and left our passports at the reception.<br />
The guides told us, that the next day we would meet at 8:30 in the hotel lobby and then visit the "Kumsusan Memorial Palace" (= mausoleum of the Great Leader Kim Il Sung). For that we were asked to wear the most formal clothes we had.<br />
We then sayed "good night" to them and went up to our room on the 21st floor, where the 1st thing I did, was taking a shower and the 2nd thing was copying the photos of the trip from Tumangan to Pyongyang to a safe place on my laptop...<br />
We went to bed only at about 4:00 and still had some discussions about our trip to Pyongyang which generated so much impressions and also raised many questions. For example:<br />
What are the other passengers of our car doing now?<br />
How did they get home from the station?<br />
What was inside the boxes?<br />
Are the passengers happy to be at home now or would they prefer to stay in Russia longer?<br />
How do they think about North Korea, after they have been to the outside world? Do they still believe they live in the best world?<br />
Many unsolved questions already in the beginning of our stay in North Korea...<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i><b>How did the guides knew?</b></i></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>You might wonder, why the guides were waiting for us at the train station, expecting us to arrive with the train via Tumangang? </i></span></span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>The "offical version" for the travel agency was that we would arrive one day earlier with the train via the officially allowed route via Sinuijiu...</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i><br /></i></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>Well we thought that it wouldn't be a good idea to arrive at the train station and nobody waiting for us there. Maybe policemen would have picked us up?</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>So we took care that the travel agency was informed about our modified route - just early enough to inform the guides about the later arrival data (one day and a few hours later), but late enough to not give them a chance to prevent us from entering at Tumangang or to contact the border staff in advance. When we entered at Tumangang, nobody knew what we were just doing...</i></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/pyongyang-and-mt-myohyang.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">YOU ALSO WANT TO TRAVEL EUROPE - PYONGYANG BY TRAIN?</span></div>
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Now there is also <span style="color: red;">a travel agency, which can even organize Europe - Pyongyang train trips</span> (but not the route we took). Also I recently found out that theoretically there is a possibility to travel to Rajin via Tumangan legally (but not to Pyongyang).</div>
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Click <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html">here</a> for more information.</div>
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<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span></div>
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Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:</div>
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<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a></div>
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Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:</div>
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<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a></div>
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Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-37424862397211158712008-09-20T11:51:00.000-07:002015-01-17T15:49:08.933-08:00By train across North Korea (1/2)<span style="color: red;">Download the kmz-file for GoogleEarth to follow our route inside North Korea and see, where the photos were taken. Most of my photos from inside North Korea are now on GoogleEarth.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-7086884/Vienna---Tumangan---Pyongyang-2008.kmz.html"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">DOWNLOAD HERE (~50 kB)</span></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />2008-09-20</span><br />
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I woke up at about 5 in the morning. It was still dark, but nevertheless it was interesting to have a look out of the window. I noticed people walking around in the darkness, maybe to reach their place of work.<br />
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A map of our trip from Tumangan to Pyongyang:<br />
<img src="http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/5/koreamap.jpg" width="800" /><br />
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Slowly it was getting light. The landscape was hilly and covered by maize-fields.<br />
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The first photo of the day – a station in North Korea:<br />
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Landscape:<br />
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My first video inside North Korea:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qNP16LwxWE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qNP16LwxWE</a><br />
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We approached a town, but due to the delay I couldn't identify it with the help of the timetable...<br />
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Arrival at the station:<br />
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I asked the conductors, they told me that this was Kilchu. According to the Russian timetable the train was due to arrive here at 3:58, now it was 6:30.<br />
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On the platform there was another train. The conductors said, that it was the Pyongyang – Tumangan train. On the platform there was a booth, where apples and mineral water were sold – the first signs of market economy in North Korea... Also at other stations food was sold at such booths.<br />
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Typical seating car:<br />
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Also this train had two sleeping cars:<br />
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At the rear of the train to Tumangan a helper-locomotive was attached here. Apparently the line is quite steep north of Kilchu.<br />
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We left Kilchu at 6:45:<br />
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The boundaries of the track ballast are usually marked with accurately laid white stones. Every 100 meters a milestone shows the distance to/from Pyongyang. According to them Kilchu is 570 km from Pyongyang. That means that during the night we have done 285 km since Tumangan within 10,5 hours – average speed 27 km/h.<br />
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River crossing near Kilchu:<br />
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Railway bridges in North Korea usually have no foot-path and no handrails, next to the rails there is just nothing…<br />
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Traditional Korean houses near Kilchu:<br />
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The whole train:<br />
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Somewhere here I made a strange observation: One of the engine drivers opened the door and climbed nearly to the roof of the locomotive. I don't know what he did, he soon returned to the cabin. But that all happened while the train was moving and eletricity (3 kV DC) was in the catenary and the pantographs...<br />
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On the roads next to the railway there hardly no cars (only a few lorries, carrying freight and people), but many people walking around. And we also saw many children, obviously going to their school.<br />
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7:57 – arrival at Kimchaek:<br />
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When the train arrived or departed at a station there were usually masses of railway employees standing on the platform and blowing whistles. Many passengers were soldiers and I assume that due to the "military first"-policy (called "Songun"-policy and introduced by Kim Jong Il after the death of Kim Il Sung, see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songun">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songun</a>) ordinary passengers were only allowed to get on, if there were free places after the soldiers boarded...<br />
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More houses:<br />
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Maize and rice fields:<br />
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8:24 – passing Manchun station:<br />
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The Eastern sea (Japanese sea):<br />
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Nice beach:<br />
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8:34 – passing Il-Shin station:<br />
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Maize fields:<br />
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Some propaganda (I assume it tells something like “Great progress in the 21st century due to the wise leadership of Kim Jong Il”…)<br />
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Near Tanchon a line to an industrial are (refinery, magnesium plant) branches off (source: Googleearth and <a href="http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/download.php?Number=861907">http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/download.php?Number=861907</a>)<br />
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At Tanchon station (arr. ~9:00, dep. 9:13) we see this former RZD plazkartniy-car in another domestic train (to Hyesan, if I remember correctly). Very interesting!<br />
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Station Tanchon:<br />
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2nd hand Chinese diesel locomotive:<br />
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Elektrichka?<br />
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Double-section electric locomotive:<br />
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South of Tanchon the line to Suram-ni via Sangnong-ni branches off:<br />
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<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/kilchu-pyongyang-22.html"><span style="color: red; font-size: 180%; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></a><br />
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<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">YOU ALSO WANT TO TRAVEL EUROPE - PYONGYANG BY TRAIN?</span><br />
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Now there is also <span style="color: red;">a travel agency, which can even organize Europe - Pyongyang train trips</span> (but not the route we took). Also I recently found out that theoretically there is a possibility to travel to Rajin via Tumangan legally (but not to Pyongyang).<br />
Click <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html">here</a> for more information.<br />
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<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
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Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
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Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
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Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-56961631925999940182008-09-19T11:48:00.000-07:002016-04-18T16:17:36.739-07:00Entering North Korea at Tumangan<span style="color: red;">Download the kmz-file for GoogleEarth to follow our route inside North Korea and see, where the photos were taken. Most of my photos from inside North Korea are now on GoogleEarth.</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.file-upload.net/download-7086884/Vienna---Tumangan---Pyongyang-2008.kmz.html"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">DOWNLOAD HERE (~50 kB)</span></a><br />
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After the middle of the bridge we already had North Korean territory below the wheels. There were people under the bridge, they were working on some kind of field.They beckoned to us and we beckoned to them. We were surprised that they could be there just so close to the border.<br />
Finally we reached the end of the bridge, which was guarded by some soldiers. A picture of the north Korean end of the brige, which I found somewhere on the internet:<br />
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After a left turn, also guarded by soldiers say every 100 meters, we ran into the station of Tumangan. There were many tracks, but they all were empty. We didn't reach the final passenger station, but stopped before. Soldiers were entering the two wagons.<br />
Our sleeping-car was divided from the other wagon and we were shunted to the regauging facility (North Korea uses normal gauge - 1435mm), which was located north of the main tracks. During that shunting one soldiers went through the sleeping-car to have a first look at the passengers. He was quite surprised to see us two, and considering his facial expression I imagined that he was thinking something like "Oh, hm, ah, hm. Who are they? What to do now?" because he didn't expect to meet other cititzen than North Korean people...<br />
The sleeping car was parked at the the regauging facility. A female soldier came in and wanted to see our passport. She had a look at them and then gave them back to us.<br />
Several other soldiers who hastily ran up and down on the corridor just had a short look at us.<br />
There was a high loading platform outside and after some time a minibus (I think it was a Toyota...) arrived. Inside there were even more soldiers, maybe four or five. They jumped down to the track and entered the sleeping-car. Did they come especially for us?<br />
We are not sure, but we think so... they came to our compartment. I said "Zdravstvujte" and one of them answered in Russian. He spoke Russian and then sat down on my bed. A colleague sat down opposite on Olivers bed. He asked us "Speak english?"<br />
So at least communciation was no problem. Two other soldiers were standing in the door, one of them had many medals on his uniform. The Russian-speaking soldier introduced him as their commandant. I tested my best Korean and said "Annyonghaseyo" and he smiled back.<br />
Our two "translators" (they were about 30-40 years old) then wanted to see our passports. They thoroughly checked our visas and asked for where we were going and for what purpose (I answered by pointing on the Korean word next to the words "Purpose of entry" on my visa...). They asked for our nationality and I had the impression that they initially didn't exactly understand from what country I was from. I don't know how Austria is said in Korean language, and they didn't seem to know the Russian word "Avstriya". I finally tried to explain by drawing a map and saying that "Avstriya" is "nedaleko" (close) to "Germaniya"...<br />
They sat quite a while with us and asked us also what was our job, what we knew about North Korea, how our media is reporting abouth North Korea, how we think about the United States, whether we have been there or were planning to go there, what we were thinking about Kim Jong Il and so on…of course we answered diplomatically.<br />
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Finally they put the long-awaited stamp in our passport.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9wZUIoKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/wZUIoK.jpg" /></a><br />
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Now we had officially entered North Korea via Tumangan! "The Songun-era began", we were joking...<br />
The stamp was a real trophy and maybe few people understand the special meaning it had for us and why we took all the potential risks just to get this stamp. Relatives and friends consider me quite crazy...<br />
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After that a customs official came into our compartment. The other two remained as translators. We were each given a customs declaration form (in english). And of course we had to open our backpacks and had to show nearly every single item which was inside. Filling in the customs declaration was a little bit chaotic, something we wrote down accordning to the questions, some items we listed because the official wanted that we list it. Some things he wrote himself on the declaration in Korean language. He was very interested in our books and checked them, but they were quite harmless: A RZD timetable, a Russian railway atlas, a travel-guide about "Molvania" and so on. Also cameras, my laptop and several USB-sticks drew attention.<br />
And of course the mobile-phones were of special interest, as they are forbidden in North Korea. The "translator" said, that they would be sealed and that we must open the envelope only when we leave the country. The sealing was quite simple: The customs official asked me for some of paper (obviously they didn't have their own...) and I gave him two empty DIN-A4-sheets, in which he enwraped the mobile phones and which he closed with a yellow tape, which he then stamped several times...<br />
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One of Olivers CDs also drew attention, as on it's cover some some "lightly" dressed women were shown. They asked whether the CD contains some kind of pornography, but were content with the explanation that it only contains music.<br />
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Finally it seemed that the customs declaration was complete. We were told that we would have to show this declaratiuon when we leave North Korea and that we must not leave any single item listed on it in North Korea.<br />
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They told us, that they now have to take the books, the laptop, the camera and the USB-sticks with them for some further inspection by a specialist, and that we would receive our belongings later.<br />
They asked us to put all this items into the two smaller backpack (both of us had a big and a small backpack). Then they took the backpacks and left the sleeping-car.<br />
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Meanwhile the regauging procedure was nearly finished. Due to the long immigration and customs check we didn't notice much of the regauging.<br />
I don't remember how much time passed since we arrived at Tumangan (at about 10:30 local time = 12:30 local time in Khasan = 5:30 Moscow time), but I think it was something like two or three hours.<br />
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Now we could leave the sleeping car – the first steps on North Korean territory. The regauging facility here was quite old and in a bad condition, but it obviously worked. It was only designed for two passenger wagons to be regauged simultaneously, but that seemed enough…<br />
The other passengers went away to the station. The loading platform seemed not be used for loading freight anymore, but as a public road. Several people came about on foot, by bike or by moped.<br />
After some time the minibus, which brought the soldiers, arrived again. The conductors said that they now would have lunch somewhere and and would lock the sleeping car. They asked us whether we would like to join them, but we decided to stay here. Maybe it would have been the better decision to join them, as this would have been an unforgettable experience.<br />
Then they left using the minibus.<br />
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And we?<br />
We were standing next to the sleeping-car at the regauging facility of Tumangan. No soldier, no guide, no conductor... nobody took care of us or what we did...<br />
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We were really surprised about so much freedom in North Korea! Usually something like that is totally impossible for tourists in North Korea...<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">At this point, some basic information about tourism in North Korea:</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">Tourists can travel to North Korea only under a pre-arranged trip. All trips are guided and the guides wait for the tourists at the station or airport at Pyongyang (apart from special resorts for Russian or South Korean tourists, all trips start and end in Pyongyang). Most tourists travel to North Korea in a group, but also individual trips are possible, but also if somebody travels alone, he/she will be accompanied by two guides and one driver. It is not allowed to leave the hotel without the guides.</span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">During the time in North Korea tourists make various excursions to sights in Pyongyang and other regions of North Korea. However, only the typical tourist hot spots can be visited and the schedule has to be planned in advance also for individual tourists. </span><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">After arrival in Pyongyang all transportation is by car or chartered bus. Using public transport – apart from two stops of the Pyongyang underground – is impossible for tourists...</span><br />
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We then just sat on the loading platform and watched the scenery. A diesel shunting engine was pulling the Russian "plazkartniy"-wagon somewhere. I am not sure now, but I think it was a North Korea engine, which would mean that the North Korean railways have broad-gauge engines?<br />
Nothing else happened. As said earlier, all tracks were empty and no evidence for intense cross-border freight traffic could be seen.<br />
South of the tracks there was a maize field and some people were working there. We noticed music coming from loudspeakers somewhere. Maybe propaganda-songs to motivate the workers?<br />
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However, after some time sitting here was too boring and we decided to walk to the station and just try, whether somebody would stop us…<br />
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But nothing happened. We could easily walk to the station. The first part was on the loading platform, then on a small road next to the tracks. There were many people walking, cycling or moving by ox-cart there. Of course they looked at us, but didn't pay much attention.<br />
I think we were not a big sensation for them, as they often see Russian people here and were now maybe thinking that we were Russian too. However, I assume that the Russian tourists usually arriving here at Tumangan can't walk around the station as we did, but that they are after immigration and customs immideately picked up and brought by bus to the sea-resorts designed for them...<br />
On the tracks we saw about five persons who were digging around in the track ballast (well, it was just a mixture of sand and stones…). Apparently it was there job, but it just dispersed dust; of course such work doesn't help to improve the inferiour track condition...<br />
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After some time the road crossed the tracks and leaded to the platform. On the platform there was an obelisk with some inscriptions as well as a big stone-board with a Kim-Il-Sung portrait.<br />
We went to the station building, which was located some more meters in the west. There were other people on the platform, but also they didn't pay much attention to us.<br />
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The total distance from the regauging facility was about one kilometer:<br />
<a target="_blank" href="https://imageshack.com/i/plGbWt6Rj"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/GbWt6R.jpg" border="0"></a>
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When we reached the main buliding of the station a woman aproached us and asked us (in Russian) whether we would like to visit the shop inside the station.<br />
The shop appeared to be a souvenir-shop aimed at Russian tourists. Of course I couldn't resist to buy some old Pyongyang-postcards – "Shopping at Tumangan!".<br />
After that we walked to the gate, where the road, on which we came, left the station area. We passed it and nobody prevented us from walking some meters on the main street of Tumangan. It was not asphalted and on the other side of the road there were some small houses.<br />
I think we could have walked even more inside the village, but we thought that it was maybe better not to overstrain the freedom...<br />
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We then returned to the sleeping-car. Nobody was there and it was still locked. So we waited. It was already about 15:00. The position of the sun was ideal for taking photos, but our cameras where somewhere at the customs office... :-(<br />
After some time a car (the same minibus again) came and two of the conductors got off. They opened the door and now we finally could have some lunch inside our compartment.<br />
About half an hour later the car came again and the custom official and one of the soldiers gave us our customs declaration, but not our stuff. They said that they would give it to us later after the sleeping-car would have been shunted to the platform.<br />
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Maybe 15 minutes later a diesel locomotive approached our sleeping car. It was a relatievly new locomotive and obviously bought 2nd hand from China. The sleeping car was coupled to it and we where shunted to another track closer to the station.<br />
We then decided to walk once more to the station. I thought that maybe we could ask for the customs office to get our stuff back.<br />
The domestic train no. 7 from Pyongyang to Tumangan still had not arrived. According to the Russian timetable (the timetable attached on the corridor inside our sleeping-car only listed stations from Moscow till Khasan - no timetable for North Korea...) it was due to arrive here at 10:40, but now it was already 16:30...<br />
And it should leave Tumangan for Pyongyang at 17:50. There were already some passengers in the waiting room inside the station building. Some noticed us standing on the platform and looked at us with interested eyes...<br />
We debated whether we should go in and raise even more attention... after some time we decided to go in. Nothing happened, people were looking at us while we studie the timetable and the fare-table attached on a wall. The timetable listed two train-pairs: Trains 7/8 from/to Pyongyang (but with a departure time slightly differing from the RZD timetable – 17:00 from Tumangan) and a train-pair with 900-numbers from/to some other place.<br />
The fare table listed fares to various destinations. For every destination two different prices were listed, maybe different classes or for adults and children. The price range was up to maybe 5000 won, if I remember correctly.<br />
And of course there were portraits of the two Kims, overlooking the scenery...<br />
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Back on the platform again, I approached an official and asked him whether he spoke Russian. He did! I asked him for the way to the customs office and he told me that it was located at the western end of the platform and that the entrance was labeled also in Russian.<br />
We went there and found the door, but it was closed. But next to it there was an open window and through it we saw a woman working on a computer and in the background we saw our our small backpacks.<br />
With some Russian words we drew attention to ourselves. The woman didn't understand us, but she called somebody else. Another customs official came to the window and started to speak to us – in French!!!<br />
<br />
I don't speak French, but fortunately Oliver's French knowledge is quite good and so he could explain the situation. They officer was friendly and told us to use the side-entry to get in. We then could take our stuff and the officer wanted that we check, whether everything was still there. Everything was complete and with "merci beaucoup" and "au revoir" we left the customs office of Tumangan....<br />
<br />
Now I had of course to try to take some photos. And it was possible without problems...however, I tried to behave not too eye-catching.<br />
<br />
The main building and the only platform:<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/e8j3.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/expKyxEtj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/pKyxEt.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The entrance with the typical Kim-Il-Sung portrait – from now on the Great Leader was always with us...<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/e8j3.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyltjhR2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ltjhR2.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The tracks:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exegJAQyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/egJAQy.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The obelisk and the stone-plate with another Kim-Il-Sung picture…<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/e8j3.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyIdDAKmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/IdDAKm.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
We walked back to the sleeping car:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f055xBOfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/55xBOf.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyzmYIalj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/zmYIal.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The sleeping-car Moscow – Pyongyang at Tumangan:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj37q7Utj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/37q7Ut.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Next to it there were some freight cars:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idBcaygNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/BcaygN.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbVI1mbEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/VI1mbE.jpg" /></a>
<br />
Some locomotives parked on another track:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p16ZQbHuj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/6ZQbHu.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4H4yehxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/H4yehx.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0SMNDg2j" target="_blank"></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
I'm not sure whether all of them were still working...<br />
<br />
Empty tracks leading to Russia:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0SMNDg2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/SMNDg2.jpg" /></a> <br />
View towards the passenger station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipFBpCwGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/FBpCwG.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
The loading platform and the regauging facility. In the background you can see the woman, who was the first to check our passports after we arrived and some persons sitting on the track and digging around...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipExb4plj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Exb4pl.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
We returned to our sleeping-car. A building next to it:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p142f67qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/42f67q.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Finally, at about 18:15, train no. 7 from Pyongyang arrived. It was quite long:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipAriLONj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/AriLON.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Chinese diesel locomotive came again and our sleeping car was then attached to the Pyongyang-bound end of the train.<br />
<br />
During the shunting maneuver:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pchEUMLfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/hEUMLf.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exgWbKuFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/gWbKuF.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlbeLl5Dj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/beLl5D.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Please excuse the bad photo quality, but for the parts of my travelogue concerning North Korea I decided to publish also photos of inferior quality, if they show something interesting. I think that photos from this part of the world are quite rare and therefore I'd like to show as much photos as possible... <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlbeLl5Dj" target="_blank"></a><br />
<br />
Most of the wagons were seating cars. There were two sleeping-cars and one seating car with two pantographs. Maybe it was some kind of buffet/dining car, but the window arrangement didn't differ from the other cars. Or maybe it was a special wagon, from which the other wagons are supplied with electrical power (instead of directly from the locomotive)?<br />
<br />
Sunset at Tumangan:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0k3R7Suj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/k3R7Su.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey3jf3y4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/3jf3y4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Later the electric locomotive together with two luggage cars was attached to the train. However, it seemed as there were technical problems with one of the luggage cars, so they had to put this wagon out of the train again.<br />
<br />
So we still had some time to walk around at the platform. Meanwhile it was dark and there were no lights, the platform was in total darkness. There were quite many passengers boarding the train and also much railway staff commanding the passengers by blowing their whistles...<br />
<br />
Finally, after some more whistling and after the train-horn sounded several times the train started moving towards Pyongyang at 20:00 – with two hours delay...<br />
The sound of the train rumbling over the track with about 40 km/h is undescribable, the rail joints follow in very short intervals and the gaps between the rails seem to be quite big compared to other countries, which causes an unusual fast and loud "tatak-tatak" despite the low speed...<br />
So we jingled through the dark night – the only lights outside are visible in the north, across the river in China...<br />
<br />
That's the timetable for the further trip to Pyongyang according to the Russian railways:<br />
<span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /><span style="font-family: "courier new";"><br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
<br />
| station | arrival | departure | train |
<br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
<br />
| Tumangan | 10:19 | 17:50 | 8 |
<br />
| Radzhin | 19:47 | 20:12 | |
<br />
| Chhondzhin | 23:20 | 23:52 | |
<br />
| Kilju | 03:58 | 04:10 | |
<br />
| Chamchin | 12:04 | 12:28 | |
<br />
| Kovon | 14:20 | 14:41 | |
<br />
| Pyongyang | 21:25 | | |
<br />
+-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+
<br />
</span></span><br />
<br />
We already assumed that this were not all the stops, and we were right...<br />
<br />
<br />
After some kilometers we passed the triangular junction at which the line to Onsong – Namyang – Hoeryong branches off.<br />
There were one or two stops untill we went to bed and it was always the same: Total darkness outside, people running around to find their wagon, other people loading stuff into the luggage-car, railway staff blowing their whistles and much "train-horning" before departure...<br />
<br />
At some stop, when we were already sleeping, somebody was knocking on the door. We opened it and a soldier wanted to see our passports. After some minutes the passports were returned to us.<br />
We were not really surprised about that, as we have heared that in North Korea there are also restrictions for North Korean citizen travelling inside their country. Especially travelling to Pyongyang is not easy for local people and requires a special permit. But here it was maybe the border of the Rajin-Songbon Economic Special Zone, which caused the additional passport check.<br />
However, everything was OK and so we could continue sleeping...<br />
<br />
----------------<br />
<br />
Some more interesting information about the railway border Khasan/Tumangan:<br />
<br />
At <a href="http://www.logistics.ru/9/7/i77_6557p0.htm">http://www.logistics.ru/9/7/i77_6557p0.htm</a> you can find a Russian article about the history of this border crossing point.<br />
The line on the Russian side from Baranovskiy to Khasan was built between 1938 and 1951. The first bridge over the border was a wooden railway bridge opened in 1952. In 1954, when cross-border freight traffic offically started, 4400 tons of freight were transported over the border. That number rose to 12.000 tons in 1955.<br />
In 1959 the new bridge, which still exists today, was opened.<br />
The peak in freight traffic was in 1988 with 4.795.000 tons (USSR > DPRK: 4.070.000 tons, DPRK > USSR 725.000 tons). The numbers show, that the USSR ecenomically supported the DPRK and due to the political and economical changes in the former USSR the mostly unidirectional trade between the two countries decreased after 1988:<br />
1988 – 4.795.000<br />
1990 – 3.526.000<br />
1993 – 2.306.000<br />
1994 – 761.000<br />
1999 – 230.000<br />
2002 – 68.000<br />
Only after 2002 a slight increase is noticeable, in 2004 106.000 tons were transported. However, the infrastrucuture was overdimensioned, and it has therefore been reduced: Several tracks at Khasan station were removed, as well as 3 of 14 passing-tracks between Baranovskiy and Khasan.<br />
Passenger traffic was opened in 1958 and 10582 passengers crossed the border during the first year. Till 1988 this number rose to 21.000/42.000 passengers (I'm not sure, does "vozroslo na 200%" mean "rose to 200%" or "rose by 200%"?).<br />
The new station building in Khasan was opened in 1989 and it was suitable to handle up to 500 international passengers per day. However, also passenger traffic is now lower than it was at it's best times. During the 1st 6 months of 2005 5315 passengers crossed the border.<br />
<br />
<br />
Nowadays Russian railways (RZD) have big plans for this border crossing point. One the one hand RZD hopes that the border between North and South Korea will be opened soon and that they can establish an transcontinental freight corridor from South Korea via Russia to Europe…<br />
This might maybe not happen in the near future, but on the other hand RZD now under a joint-venture with North Korea rebuilds the line from Tumangan to the port of Rajin, where a new container terminal will be built. This line is 54 km long and in future it will be a dual-gauge line. From Rajin RZD and their partners want to establish a container-link by ship to Pusan in South Korea.<br />
The ceremonies to mark the start of the reconstruction works were held on 4th october 2008 at Tumangan – just 2 weeks after us...<br />
<br />
Read more:<br />
<a href="http://www.railwaygazette.com/news_view/article/2008/10/8933/trans_korean_reconstruction_begins.html">http://www.railwaygazette.com/news_view/article/2008/10/8933/trans_korean_reconstruction_begins.html</a> (english)<br />
<a href="http://gudok.ru/index.php/63875">http://gudok.ru/index.php/63875</a> (Russian)<br />
<a href="http://www.ptr-vlad.ru/news/ptrnews/7484-nachalas-modernizacija-zheleznodorozhnogo-puti.html">http://www.ptr-vlad.ru/news/ptrnews/7484-nachalas-modernizacija-zheleznodorozhnogo-puti.html</a> (in Russian, with a TV-report)<br />
<a href="http://www.amurpravda.ru/articles/2008/10/09/12.html">http://www.amurpravda.ru/articles/2008/10/09/12.html</a> ("6 hours in North Korea"; a Russian journalist writes about this personal impresssions of his visit to Tumangan)<br />
<br />
For me it was quite strange to see a TV-report from Tumangan (my Firefox doesn't show the report for some unknown reason, IE does however) just two weeks after I have been there myself. And also in the TV-report the journalist notices the empty tracks at Tumangan...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/kilchu-pyongyang-12.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
----------------<br />
DISCLAIMER<br />
Alltough we succesfully entered North Korea via Tumangan, we were later via e-mail told by our travel agency, that our trip caused serious troubles at KITC (the governmental "Korean International Tourist Company").<br />
I can therefore - untill KITC officially accepts this border point for tourists - not recommend to repeat what we did, as trying to do so might end up with another result...<br />
----------------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">YOU ALSO WANT TO TRAVEL EUROPE - PYONGYANG BY TRAIN?</span><br />
<br />
Now there is also <span style="color: red;">a travel agency, which can even organize Europe - Pyongyang train trips</span> (but not the route we took). Also I recently found out that theoretically there is a possibility to travel to Rajin via Tumangan legally (but not to Pyongyang).<br />
Click <a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2009/06/book-your-own-europe-pyongyang-train.html">here</a> for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-17268461478860871332008-09-19T11:00:00.000-07:002016-02-18T13:26:15.337-08:00Approaching the Russian-Korean border....<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-18</span><br />
<br />
<br />
The "Rossiya" stops in Ussuriysk from 21:27 till 21:45, that’s from 4:27 till 4:45 local time. The North Korean sleeping car is uncoupled here, whereas the main train continues to Vladivostok where it arrives at 21:48 (6:48 local time) after a trip of 9258 kilometers and 146 hours and 23 minutes.<br />
The sleeping car to Pyongyang continues its trip only in the afternoon at 9:05 (16:05 Moscow) time, so the stop at Ussuriysk lasts nearly 12 hours.<br />
<br />
When we woke up, it was already 9:00 in the morning (local time). I looked out of the window, the car was parked somewhere on a side-track.<br />
<br />
After a short breakfast we left the car to explore the area. There was no platform and no passenger station visible. We were at a freight depot. The whole area was fenced off. On another track Japanese 2nd-hand cars were loaded to a special freight train for transporting automobiles. They will be used somewhere in Russia. I've heard that the ferries running between Vladivostok and Niigata in Japan usually transport no cars eastbound, but are full with used Japanese cars westbound, which are imported by Russian traders.<br />
<br />
Our sleeping car:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdnQg7XQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/nQg7XQ.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7Q80zGej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/Q80zGe.jpg" /></a>
Custom control zone
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8fvJVlwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/fvJVlw.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
We also wondered where the westbound Korean sleeping car was parked. According to the timetable the Pyongyang – Moscow sleeping car is due to be in Ussuriysk on the same dates (4th and 18th of each month) as the Moscow – Pyongyang sleeping car: It should arrive from Pyongyang at 0:50 (7:50 local time) and depart at 17:12 (0:12 local time) attached to train no. 1 "Rossiya" (Vladivostok – Moskva).<br />
<br />
We asked our conductors in which direction the station was located, then told them that we want to explore the station and the town and that we would would return only after some hours. We left our luggage inside the compartment. Also the other passengers and some of the conductors seem to have gone away – maybe the enjoy their last day in freedom…<br />
<br />
It was quite warm and due to the humid air one could also feel, that the sea is not far away. We went to the end of the freight depot and left it at a gate. There were some Russian officials, but nobody was interested, what we were doing here. Then we were on a road on which we walked to the station. According to GoogleEarth it was about 650 meters (as the crow flies) south of our parked sleeping car:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exjVDmpUj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exh14YLrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/h14YLr.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyD2L7LLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/D2L7LL.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The station was currently under renovation. Train 351 (Sovetskaya Gavan – Vladivostok) just arrived:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exjVDmpUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/jVDmpU.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
There was a pedestrian bridge over the rails, of course we had to go there to take some more photos...<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id70migHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/70migH.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paezp0bvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/ezp0bv.jpg" /></a><br />
Modernized 3TE10 diesel locomotives:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Vh1ryjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Vh1ryj.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjizy0oxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/izy0ox.jpg" /></a>
When I looked around, I suddenly noticed a wagon which already from the distance looked different than the others. I used the zoom-function of my camera to proof, what I suspected –and of course it was the sleeping car Pyongyang – Moscow…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0CYgRdJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/CYgRdJ.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
New electro-locomotive 3ES5K "Yermak" with a long freight train:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlWj9TjRj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/Wj9TjR.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
These locomotives are built by Transmashholding (<a href="http://eng.tmholding.ru/">http://eng.tmholding.ru/</a>) since 2004, initially as 2ES5K, since 2007 with additional booster as 3ES5K. Power – 9840 kW, traction force – 696 kN (one hour rating).<br />
More details are available here:<br />
<a href="http://eng.tmholding.ru/work/catalog/products/682/683/685/1580">http://eng.tmholding.ru/work/catalog/products/682/683/685/1580</a><br />
<a href="http://eng.tmholding.ru/work/catalog/products/682/683/685/2509">http://eng.tmholding.ru/work/catalog/products/682/683/685/2509</a><br />
<br />
During my trip I noticed that new locomotives like the "Yermak" are becoming more and more common in Russia. Somewhere in the future they will replace the traditional Russian freight locomotives like VL10 and VL80...<br />
<br />
Of course we had to inspect the train with the sleeping car Pyongyang – Moscow. Apart from the North Korean car the train Khasan – Ussuriysk consists of three Russian cars – one "plazkartniy" (dormitory-style beds), one "kupe" (4-bed-compartments) and one "obshchiy" (like plazkartniy, but used as seating car with 81 instead of 4 passengers):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id0xZHlJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/0xZHlJ.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey8Mwjl7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/8Mwjl7.jpg" /></a>
<br />
In front of the station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipbyfiUHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/byfiUH.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
The men in red, which arrived with the train from Sovetskaya Gavan, were North Korean sportsmen…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idwLFN4Lj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/wLFN4L.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
Good bye, Lenin – now we are going to Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex4tXUsqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/4tXUsq.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Advertisement of the "Primorskiy institute of railway transportation" offering education for railway professions:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0ZT6Uopj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/ZT6Uop.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
We asked how to get to downtown Ussuriysk, people told us to go by bus, as it is too far away to walk. At the bus stop we were quite surprised to find a detailed bus timetable listing all departure times of the urban busses.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idmYRW6Oj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/mYRW6O.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Later we found out, that such timetables don't only exist at the station, but at all other bus-stops, we saw. Such good passenger information is rare in Russia, and I wouldn't have expected it in a relatively small town in the Russian Far East! But progress happens!<br />
<br />
Downtown Ussuriysk: <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exgsfpAfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/gsfpAf.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f01kILpfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/1kILpf.jpg" /></a>
In general the town made a nice and very clean impression. Also there seemed to be a relatively wide selection of hotels, which is also unusual for provincial towns in Russia. I assume that the fact that China is not far (only 50 km to the border) boosts trade and economy in this part of Russia.<br />
More about Ussuriysk: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ussuriysk">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ussuriysk</a><br />
<br />
After some shopping and a lunch at a small "shashlyk"-café we went back to the station:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eynPiG2Vj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/nPiG2V.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The North Korean sportsmen were still there. I asked them where they come from and where they go now and found out that they were a volleyball-team, which had a game in Khabarovsk and now return to Pyongyang.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile our sleeping car had been shunted to the station and attached to the train from/to Khasan. So we didn't need to walk back.<br />
<br />
Freight train with some new excavators:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8T2mfTGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/T2mfTG.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The safety marking on the platform was painted new:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paX7tpmAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/X7tpmA.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Woman with her mail-trolley, waiting for the luggage/mail-train:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjRuTKOMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/RuTKOM.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Luggage/mail-train 903 from Vladivostok to Moscow:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjLSXqIzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/LSXqIz.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
While we were taking photos, two policemen approached us. However, they just wanted to see my passport and asked what we were doing here. I explained that we are going to Korea and that we are railway employees in Europe and are just interested in the railway in Russia. I asked whether it's forbidden to take photos here, the answer was no, they were just interested why we take photos. So, everything was OK, and the two friendly policemen went away.<br />
<br />
At 15:35 (local time) a TEM2 shunter came to the train to Khasan and pulled the 4 cars to the platform. The Korean sleeping car TO Moscow of course remained at the end of the siding.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f09rNIL6j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/9rNIL6.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The train at the platform:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyrbbzpsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/rbbzps.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
That's me:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey3FRAvbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/3FRAvb.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
2TE10MK-1278 was attached to the train:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0jyjUMZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/jyjUMZ.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdmlOjpjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/mlOjpj.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Korean sportsmen boarded the "obshchiy"-car:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p48wcSiHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/8wcSiH.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Punctually at 9:05 (16:05 local time) train 966 left. The train uses the Transsiberian main line along the Razdol'naya river for the first kilometres…<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipGKBHUpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/GKBHUp.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
…before it branches off at Baranovskiy and crosses the Razdol'naya river:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pa30a5buj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/30a5bu.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exfd903zj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/fd903z.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyuFWP4uj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/uFWP4u.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0PZ65owj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/PZ65ow.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idbxwevNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/bxwevN.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paPJNremj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/PJNrem.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdnXIsksj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/nXIsks.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
So, now we were already leaving the usual tourist-routes – North Korea, we are coming!!!<br />
<br />
The speed on this branch line is also slower than on the main line and the train stops more often. The 260km-trip from Ussuriysk to Khasan therefore takes 7 hours…<br />
<br />
Two hours after leaving Ussuriysk I saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time in my life:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip5fWZysj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/5fWZys.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
In the background Vladivostok could be seen:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipYk1wNwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Yk1wNw.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Station Primorskaya:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paYVY6Eaj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/YVY6Ea.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Train 965/966 is the only passenger train on this route, but we saw quite a lot freight trains at the stations we passed.<br />
<br />
The landscape here is beautiful and nature seems untouched. And the whole area seems quite unsettled.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idlEznTgj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/lEznTg.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyYPVBmsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/YPVBms.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyUVjjrrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/UVjjrr.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipQckPBuj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/QckPBu.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idxbV8W2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/xbV8W2.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pafw2wkEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/fw2wkE.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Sunset was at about 20:15. Three more hours in the darkness till Khasan, the last Russian village before the border to the mysterious "Hermit Kingdom"…<br />
<br />
Finally at about 23:00 (local time) the train arrived at Khasan. There were only a few passengers getting off. The station building was brightly illuminated. It's a strange, quiet atmosphere at an interesting place. It's not only the fact, that North Korea is only 1600 meters away. Also China is very close.<br />
Russia and North Korea only have a 17-km long common border along the Tumen-river. Only a railway bridge, the so-called "friendship-bridge", opened on 9th august 1959, crosses the border. The point, where Russia, China and North Korea meet, is only 200 or 300 meters west of the bridge in the middle of the river ...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4UAl4DZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/UAl4DZ.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
A Soviet military map (1:100.000) of the area:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idfsOd6Dj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/fsOd6D.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
So, it's quite an exciting place in a geopolitical sense...<br />
<br />
See for more maps at
<a href="http://imageshack.com/a/img921/1224/dV64Py.gif">http://imageshack.com/a/img921/1224/dV64Py.gif</a>
(scale 1:200.000, please note the remark "secret") and
<a href="http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4070/5D4JKj.gif">http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4070/5D4JKj.gif</a>
(scale 1:500.000). There is no legal way to cross the Russian-Chinese border near Khasan, so it is indeed an very isolated village.<br />
<br />
<br />
Shortly after arrival a female Russian railway employee came to the Korean sleeping car, together with an – obviously – Korean men. They sat down in the conductors compartment.<br />
After some time we were called to come there. Together with the conductors they were filling out a list with all passengers, who would cross the border the next day. The Korean man seemed to be a translator, he spoke fluently Russian and Korean. All were very friendly.<br />
However, they were quite surprised to meet Austrian and Swiss citizen. They wanted to see our passports and asked whether we have documents to enter the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. We answered that we have valid DPRK-visas and showed them in the passport. They were content with it and wrote our names and passport details on the list...<br />
The woman said, that we can now walk around at the station, but that taking photos is not allowed.<br />
<br />
So we left the train. The Korean sportsmen were sitting on the stairs from the platform to the station building. There were several video-cameras, so taking photos was indeed out of the question.<br />
Most of the station building was dark. Only the most northern part was accessible, the other doors were closed. We entered the station building. Inside there were some waiting benches, a ticket counter and a police office. There were also some people – the train back to Ussuriysk leaves at about 1:00 (local time) in the night.<br />
The timetable listed – beside the train from/to Ussuriysk – also two so-called "working trains" (rabochnye poezda) to/from Gvozdevo, maybe better translated as mixed trains. Trains over the border were not listed, but I knew that there is not only the twice-monthly sleeping car Moscow – Pyongyang, but also a twice-weekly cross-border passenger train Khasan – Tumangan.<br />
While we were looking around, a policeman came out of his offices. He asked us for our passports and what we were doing here. We answered that we were going to Pyongyang.<br />
I should tell, that access to border areas in Russia is limited and usually requires a special permit. No permits are of course required for people living in this area and for those who are only in transit – like we...<br />
The policeman was satisfied with our explanation. I asked him, whether and how often he met foreigners here. He said, that he has been working here for about one year and that we were the 1st foreigners (except North Koreans, of course), he met.<br />
<br />
We went back to the sleeping-car. The woman and the Korean translator just left the sleeping car. I also asked them about other third country citizen crossing the border. The answer was that usually only Russian and Korean citizen cross the border, but that there have been a few third country citizen here, but they didn't remember when that was the last time...<br />
They also said, that among the passengers of the sleeping car to Pyongyang there are usually not even Russian citizen. Russian citizen crossing the border only go to the so called "Rajin-Sonbong Special Economic zone", setup by the North Korean administration in cooperation with China and Russia. See <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajin-Sonbong_Economic_Special_Zone">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajin-Sonbong_Economic_Special_Zone</a><br />
There are travel agencies organizing trips to sea-resorts in this zone. See http://alfa-i-omega.com/severnaya-koreya/<a href="http://www.parallel-dv.ru/607823777/6157108086"></a> (Russian travel agency offering trips) and <a href="http://blogion.ru/fomenko/2008/07/17/o-tom-kak-my-pobyvali-v-severnojj-koree/">http://blogion.ru/fomenko/2008/07/17/o-tom-kak-my-pobyvali-v-severnojj-koree/</a> (Russian travelogue).<br />
<br />
We went back to our compartment. Meanwhile the platform was empty, the Korean sportsmen disappeared somewhere. The train back to Ussuriysk had already left, it was totally quiet. Now we are really at the end of the world, or at least of the world, too which we are used…<br />
<br />
Now I could take two photos out of the train window:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0axWiQMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/axWiQM.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyISYqBrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ISYqBr.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
After some time we decided to went to bed. There was just one problem – I needed a toilet, but the toilet in the car was locked, as were the doors of the car. However, the front doors of the car were not locked, so also this problem was solved…<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-19</span><br />
<br />
We woke up at around 8 in the morning. Today the "songun-era" begins, we were joking… After breakfast we left the sleeping car for a walk on the platform. The sleeping car was standing alone on track 1. Track 2, 3 and 4 were empty, on the other tracks there were some freight cars. But they were already out of service and waited for better times. We also noticed one track with 4 rails – Russian broad gauge (1520mm) and Korean standard gauge (1435mm). But the standard gauge rails seemed to be unused. This station had already seen better times with more traffic…<br />
The only activity were some workers removing grass growing between the rails.<br />
At about 9:00 the mixed train from Gvozdevo arrived on track 3. It was pulled by a TEM2 and consisted of one "obshchiy"-car and some freight cars. We saw no passengers leaving it.<br />
From the distance we took this photo of the station:<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0twtH9ij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/twtH9i.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
We went back to the wagon. After some time a Russian man in civilian clothes came and collected our passports. He then disappeared in the station building.<br />
Alltough we bought some bread at Ussuriysk, we now thought that it might not be enough for the further trip to Pyongyang. So I asked some Russians for a shop. It was close to the station on the main-road of the village.<br />
<br />
After some time the man returned to us. He asked me for my Russian registration stamp on the immigration card (which I received when I entered Russia). I explained that I have only travelled across Russia without long stops and showed him the entry-stamp of Bryansk.<br />
He gave us our passports. It seemed as this was not the real, final passport check, as we also received our immigration cards back. They have been stamped, but the passport wasn't.<br />
<br />
After that I could take two more photos out of the wagon:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyiLsFuPj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/iLsFuP.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip5NwcxVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/5NwcxV.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
At about 10:15 the real border check began. Uniformed men and women entered the sleeping car. They again took our passports with them.<br />
After some time the customs official came. We had just to answer the usual questions regarding alcohol and cigarettes, whereas the Korean conductors and passengers had to open all their packages. I don't know whether they had to pay a fine, but I assume that also the customs officials get their share of the profit generated by this kind of trade…<br />
Then another soldier came, he removed all kind of coverings and also the backrests of the beds to check whether there is something hided behind...<br />
After about one hour the passports were returned to us. With the exit-stamp in our passport we passed the "point of no return"…<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex7mWH1wj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/7mWH1w.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Already the Khasan-stamp was a trophy for us, let's see whether we will get something more interesting…<br />
<br />
The scheduled departure time was at 12:00 (5:00 Moscow time). Still nearly one hour. The TEM2-locomotive of the train from Gvozdevo moved to track 1 together with the "obshchiy"-car and these two vehicles were coupled to our sleeping-car to form the cross-border train.<br />
Soldiers surrounded the small train and the rest of the platform was fenced off with barrier tapes.<br />
Then one of the doors (which had been closed the evening before) of the station building opened and in intervals of about one minute about 15 Russian passengers for the "obshchiy"-car came out and went to the train. Apparently the southern part of the station building is used for passport and custom checks for other passengers than those of the direct sleeping car. After the Russian passengers also the Korean sportsmen (they were 17) came there one after each other and boarded the "obshchiy"-car.<br />
Whereas all Russian citizen entered at the front-end, all Korean passengers entered at the rear-end of the wagon. And all passports were double-checked at the wagon-door by a Russian border official.<br />
<br />
Finally, at about 11:50 all passengers seemed to be on-board. Some minutes later the engine started and a Russian soldier boarded our wagon at the rear-end. At about 12:05 we left Khasan station…a very exciting moment…<br />
<br />
The distance from the station to the bridge is about 1,5 km. The train went slowly with about 30 km/h. The rails were surrounded by fences.<br />
Just in front of the bridge there was a small platform and the train stopped here. The Russian soldiers left the train. There were some military buildings around – of course not a good place to take photos. However, at <a href="http://udaff.name/mir/zvukorezh_dvr/">http://udaff.name/mir/zvukorezh_dvr/</a> I found a photo of the sign "Rossiya – KNDR" (KNDR = Koreyskaya Narodnaya Demokraticheskaya Respublika" = Democratic People's Republic Korea), which I have embedded to this Google-Earth image:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbjE5LUCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/jE5LUC.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Also this photo of Kim Jong Ils special train was taken here:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyJ9D91zj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/J9D91z.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
The bridge:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/poigECMXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/igECMX.jpg" /></a>
<br />
After a few minutes the train rolls on... we are approaching the "Friendship Bridge" to North Korea...<br />
<br />
The gate, which can be seen on this photo, is now open...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9LPkzoSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/LPkzoS.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Slowly we run over the bridge... what will happen on the other end of it? How will the border guards react? Will there be problems? We don't know it really..<br />
<br />
<br />
Some other interesting pics from
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/category/145-khasanskii-pogranichnyi-otriad-posetskii">http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/category/145-khasanskii-pogranichnyi-otriad-posetskii</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Russian border guards handing over a poor North Korean refugee back to their North Korean colleagues:<br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10959-peredacha-ngg-khasanskii-pogo/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/CNJMc7.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10958-peredacha-grazhdanina-vostochnoi-natcionalnos" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/wI9nGW.jpg" /></a>
<br />
Source:<br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10958-peredacha-grazhdanina-vostochnoi-natcionalnost">
http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10958-peredacha-grazhdanina-vostochnoi-natcionalnost</a><br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10959-peredacha-ngg-khasanskii-pogo">http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10959-peredacha-ngg-khasanskii-pogo</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I don't want to imagine what happened to him after being handed over to North Korea... <br />
<br />
<br />
North Koreans on the bridge:<br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5409-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-zaderzhannye/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/Na7Cwo.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5409-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-zaderzhannye/" target="_blank"><img alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" border="0" src="http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/842/y4c1.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Source: <a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5409-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-zaderzhannye/">http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5409-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-zaderzhannye/</a><br />
<br />
Bilateral meeting at the middle of the bridge:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5408-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-peredacha-ngg/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/921/JXpI2f.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5413-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-vstrecha-delegatcii/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/GiORpl.jpg" /></a>
<br />
Source:<br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5413-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-vstrecha-delegatcii">http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5413-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-vstrecha-delegatcii</a><br />
<a href="http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5408-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-peredacha-ngg/">http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/5408-khasanskii-pogo-kndr-peredacha-ngg/</a><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/tumangan-north-korean-border-station.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
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<br />Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-36205514834266346282008-09-17T11:45:00.000-07:002015-01-17T15:47:48.564-08:00The Russian Far East<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-17</span><br />
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During the night the train went several 100 kilometers southwards and when we woke up we already noticed that it was not that cold and that the trees outside were still mostly green.<br />
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At the short stop at Arkhara (4:04 – 4:07) we passed a long container-train:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4NLfAWNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/NLfAWN.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcqM3ZjYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/qM3ZjY.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pb13Dz8nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/13Dz8n.jpg" /></a><br />
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This long container-cars for two 40-feet-containers are relatively new in Russia, from the inscriptions we gathered that they have been built since 2006.<br />
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A tunnel between Arkhara and Obluche:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idTyp9bqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/Typ9bq.jpg" /></a><br />
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The line makes some serpentines, in the background you can see the tracks, which we had passed some minutes before:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eypn4gMEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/pn4gME.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipiuOfMVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/iuOfMV.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pckAxDRAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/kAxDRA.jpg" /></a> <br />
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Another tunnel:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyyYuxYXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/yYuxYX.jpg" /></a>
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As you can see, the train was running on the left track at this tunnel, the other track seemed to be closed for works.<br />
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Aproaching Obluche:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id7OguX2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/7OguX2.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4V9fulkj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/V9fulk.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5Fwcq3mj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/Fwcq3m.jpg" /></a>
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At Obluche (5:55 – 6:10):<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idpHArUWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/pHArUW.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p169bzOFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/69bzOF.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdYTX9I6j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/YTX9I6.jpg" /></a>
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The station market:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8eKA84nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/eKA84n.jpg" /></a>
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Detail of the inscriptions on the North Korean sleeping car:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey1HoIR7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/1HoIR7.jpg" /></a>
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Station building:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pc1EaK22j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/1EaK22.jpg" /></a>
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Leaving Obluche: <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idda1qA3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/da1qA3.jpg" /></a><br />
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After Obluche we passed about five westbound freight trains, which were waiting on the other track one after each other. Maybe this had something to do with the single-track operation at the tunnel west of Obluche…<br />
The distance between the end of one train and the locomotive of the following train was sometimes only about 200 meters – a real railway traffic congestion…<br />
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Here you can see a waiting freight train in the background:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id9lXh9Jj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/9lXh9J.jpg" /></a><br />
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Another freight train:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipSvSyokj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/SvSyok.jpg" /></a>
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One more tunnel, the second tunnel-pipe was under reconstruction:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyzOhI0zj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/zOhI0z.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exhXhB0tj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/hXhB0t.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipbYh3whj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/bYh3wh.jpg" /></a>
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We didn't expect such a hilly terrain and tunnels here. Maybe the alignment would have been easier, if the line was built along the Amur-river, but the Russians had strategic reasons to build the line not too close to the Chinese border, which goes along the Amur river.<br />
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At Birobidzhan (8:48 – 8:51) – administrative center of the "Jewish Autonomous Oblast":<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0hPIOkqj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/hPIOkq.jpg" /></a>
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See <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birobidzhan">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birobidzhan</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewish_Autonomous_Oblast">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewish_Autonomous_Oblast</a> for more information.<br />
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An express-elektrichka to/from Khabarovsk:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9LyENfVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/LyENfV.jpg" /></a><br />
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At Birobidzhan two female train revisors boarded the train and of course the spent a lot of time in the Korean sleeping car. The checked all tickets and had some discussions with our conductors and the counted the number of passengers and luggage in each compartment. Of course it was too much, as only 35 kg of luggage is allowed per ticket. And there were only 7 tickets for the whole car, but luggage enough for about 50 or more tickets…<br />
They were friendly to us, as we were the only passengers who didn't exceed the luggage limitations.<br />
I don't now how the problem was finally solved, but I assume that the Korean conductors had to pay some fine ("shtraf"), maybe one part as an official fine, and rest inofficially… ;-)<br />
We also think, that it was no coincidence that the revisors checked train no. 2 on a day, when the twice-monthly North Korean sleeping car was attached. I'm sure they know how to earn money…<br />
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When the train approached Khabarovsk it was diverted to the left track and we overtook several freight trains – another railway traffic congestion…<br />
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Freight train with new tanks:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/padMJd58j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/dMJd58.jpg" /></a>
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Near Khabarovsk – you can see the rear of another freight train waiting on the right track:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p75Rkrruj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/5Rkrru.jpg" /></a>
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The impressive single-track bridge crossing the Amur:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdhTRj6Qj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/hTRj6Q.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idH0ddEcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/H0ddEc.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0OtitNgj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/OtitNg.jpg" /></a>
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It is a combined road-railway bridge:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9EfEfz4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/EfEfz4.jpg" /></a><br />
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However, the railway line is single-track only. I've heard there there is also a single-track railway tunnel under the Amur river, but this is not used by passenger trains.<br />
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At Khabarovsk (11:00 – 11:30, that's 18:00 – 18:30 local time):<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0rvw6d2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/rvw6d2.jpg" /></a>
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About 10 Koreans were waiting for the train here. They were no passengers, but just loading even more stuff.<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idZ50pPZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/Z50pPZ.jpg" /></a><br />
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The sleeping-car to Komsomolsk was uncoupled here.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idZ50pPZj" target="_blank"></a>
Station square:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyezPkaRj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ezPkaR.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idwcYngoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/wcYngo.jpg" /></a>
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The North Korean sleeping car to Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip57qbKDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/57qbKD.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip2TZ6AGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/2TZ6AG.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey79KPK1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/79KPK1.jpg" /></a>
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It was quite a wonder that this tower of luggage (designated for a Russian postal-luggage train) didn't collapse, when the vehicle went over the bumpy asphalt…<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idFvDG6kj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/FvDG6k.jpg" /></a>
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The train some kilometres after we left Khabarovsk:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0nTrAElj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/nTrAEl.jpg" /></a>
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After Khabarovsk we planned to take a shower in one of the Russian cars. In the "Rossiya" there is one special car, where there is a shower. The evening before, when we went to the restaurant, we asked the conductor of this car about the conditions to use the shower. The price is 100 RUB and she asked us, at which time we would come, so that she can switch on the water-heating for the shower early enough. We decided to come there after Khabarovsk. It was about at the middle of our trip to Pyongyang.<br />
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Now I wanted to go the Russian cars, but I had to find out that due to the new luggage loaded at Khabarovsk the door to the next car was blocked:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exFg7iOej" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/Fg7iOe.jpg" /></a>
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I had to rearrange all that stuff to open the door for a narrow slot, just wide enough to get through…<br />
Having a shower after 3 days on the train was then quite good… ;-)<br />
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By the way, on that day the temperature inside the sleeping car reached 20 degrees and also in the evening and during the following night it was not really cold.<br />
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<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/khabarovsk-khasan-border-russiadprk.html"><span style="color: red; font-size: 180%; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
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Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-29440725970763780842008-09-16T11:43:00.000-07:002015-01-17T15:47:32.219-08:00Boarding the direct train to Pyongyang<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-15</span><br />
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On that day we departed from Irkutsk for Pyongyang. The trip was in the direct sleeping car Moscow – Pyongyang, which runs twice monthly (11th and 25th at 21:25 from Moscow, 4 days later from Irkutsk). It is a sleeping car of the North Korean railways, which makes it very interesting. It is attached to train no. 2 "Rossiya" (Moscow – Vladivostok), one of the most famous and prestigious trains of Russian railways (RZD). With this train it runs from Moscow to Ussuriysk, about 100 km before Vladivostok. There it is detached in the early morning of the 18th and 4th (of course one day earlier after a month with 31days..) and continues in the afternoon with a local train to the border station Khasan, where it arrives late evening. Only on the next day (19th and 5th) at lunch time the sleeping-car crosses the border to North Korea to Tumangan, from where it leaves in the evening attached to a domestic Korean train Tumangan – Pyongyang, to arrive finally at Pyongyang the next evening at 21:25 (20th and 6th of each month).<br />
However, it sometimes happens that the sleeping-car runs with 2 days delay from Moscow. The departure of 11th july was delayed by two days, as I found out at <a href="http://train.mza.ru/">http://train.mza.ru</a> a few days before the 11th. I then checked also the further departures, but they were all on-time (25th july, 11th august, 25th august), so I hoped that our trip wouldn't be delayed by two days...<br />
But already before leaving from Austria I found out, that our sleeping-car would - according to <a href="http://train.mza.ru/">http://train.mza.ru</a> run - on the 11th september from Moscow.<br />
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With 10272 km the Moscow - Pyongyang sleeping car is now the longest direct train connection in the world. Total travel time from Moscow to Pyongyang is 211 hours:<br />
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<span style="font-size: 100%;"><br /><span style="font-family: courier new;"><br /> +-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+<br /> | station | arrival | departure | train |<br /> +-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+<br />Day 1:<br /> | Moskva Iaroslavskaja | | 21:25| 2MJ |<br />Day 2:<br /> | Wladimir Pass | 00:18| 00:36| |<br /> | Gorkii Mosk | 03:27| 03:39| |<br /> | Kirow Pass | 09:43| 09:58| |<br /> | Balesino | 13:26| 13:46| |<br /> | Perm 2 | 17:22| 17:42| |<br /> | Swerdlowsk Pass | 23:20| 23:43| |<br />Day 3:<br /> | Tjumen | 03:58| 04:18| |<br /> | Ischim | 07:51| 08:03| |<br /> | Omsk | 11:17| 11:32| |<br /> | Barabinsk | 15:03| 15:45| |<br /> | Novosibirsk(RUS) | 19:14| 19:33| |<br /> | Taiga | 22:52| 23:03| |<br />Day 4:<br /> | Mariinsk | 01:17| 01:42| |<br /> | Bogotol | 03:33| 03:35| |<br /> | Achinsk 1 | 04:36| 04:38| |<br /> | Krasnojarsk Pass | 07:25| 07:45| |<br /> | Saosernaja | 10:22| 10:24| |<br /> | Kansk-Enisejskij | 11:34| 11:36| |<br /> | Ilanskaja | 12:06| 12:26| |<br /> | Reschoti | 13:34| 13:36| |<br /> | Tajshet | 14:39| 14:41| |<br /> | Nishneudinsk | 17:13| 17:25| |<br /> | Tulun | 18:53| 18:55| |<br /> | Sima | 20:44| 21:14| |<br /> | Tscheremchowo | 22:52| 22:54| |<br /> | Usole-Sibirskoe | 23:47| 23:49| |<br />Day 5:<br /> | Angarsk | 00:12| 00:15| |<br /> | Irkutsk-Sort | 00:47| 00:49| |<br /> | Irkutsk Passajirskij | 01:03| 01:33| |<br /> | Sljudjanka 1 | 03:40| 03:42| |<br /> | Ulan-Ude Pass | 08:40| 09:10| |<br /> | Petrowskij Sawod | 11:12| 11:14| |<br /> | Chilok | 13:43| 13:58| |<br /> | Tschita 2 | 18:14| 18:39| |<br /> | Darasun | 19:51| 19:52| |<br /> | Karymskaia | 20:33| 20:51| |<br /> | Shilka-Passajirskai | 23:17| 23:19| |<br />Day 6:<br /> | Priiskowaja | 00:06| 00:07| |<br /> | Kuenga | 00:47| 00:48| |<br /> | Tschernischewsk-Saba | 01:53| 02:18| |<br /> | Silowo | 03:41| 03:43| |<br /> | Ksenewskaja | 05:47| 05:48| |<br /> | Mogocha | 07:40| 07:55| |<br /> | Amasar | 09:26| 09:46| |<br /> | Erofej Pavlovich | 11:41| 12:02| |<br /> | Uruscha | 13:44| 13:45| |<br /> | Skoworodino | 15:31| 15:33| |<br /> | Magdagatschi | 18:30| 18:45| |<br /> | Tigda | 19:45| 19:47| |<br /> | Schimanowskaja | 21:59| 22:01| |<br /> | Swobodnij | 23:09| 23:12| |<br />Day 7:<br /> | Belogorsk | 00:03| 00:33| |<br /> | Ekaterinoslawka | 01:47| 01:49| |<br /> | Zavitaia | 02:28| 02:30| |<br /> | Bureia | 03:11| 03:13| |<br /> | Archara | 04:04| 04:07| |<br /> | Oblutsche | 05:55| 06:10| |<br /> | Bira | 08:07| 08:08| |<br /> | Birobidshan | 08:48| 08:51| |<br /> | Chabarowsk 1 | 11:00| 11:30| |<br /> | Wjasemskaja | 13:23| 13:38| |<br /> | Bikin | 15:11| 15:13| |<br /> | Lutschegorsk | 15:55| 15:56| |<br /> | Dalneretschensk 1 | 16:54| 16:55| |<br /> | Rushino | 17:44| 17:59| |<br /> | Spassk-Dalnij | 19:29| 19:31| |<br /> | Mutschnaja | 20:07| 20:08| |<br /> | Sibirzewo | 20:25| 20:27| |<br /> | Ussuriisk | 21:27| | |<br />Day 8:<br /> | Ussuriisk | | 09:05| 966 |<br /> | Baranovskij | 09:44| 09:46| |<br /> | Olenevod | 10:01| 10:03| |<br /> | Senokosnaya | 10:19| 10:21| |<br /> | Vinevitino | 10:40| 10:42| |<br /> | Provalovo | 11:12| 11:14| |<br /> | Primorskaya | 11:54| 12:09| |<br /> | Kedrovoj | 12:24| 12:26| |<br /> | Bamburovo | 13:01| 13:06| |<br /> | Sukhanovka | 14:10| 14:15| |<br /> | Gvozdevo | 14:43| 14:48| |<br /> | Makhalino | 15:08| 15:13| |<br /> | Khasan | 16:10| | |<br />Day 9:<br /> | Khasan | | 05:00| |<br />Korean time is 5 hours ahead of Moscow time<br /> | Tumangan | 10:19| 17:50| 8 | <br /> | Radzhin | 19:47| 20:12| |<br /> | Chhondzhin | 23:20| 23:52| |<br />Day 10:<br /> | Kilju | 03:58| 04:10| |<br /> | Chamchin | 12:04| 12:28| |<br /> | Kovon | 14:20| 14:41| |<br /> | Pyongyang | 21:25| | |<br /> +-----------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+</span></span><br />
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There is also a 2nd direct train connection from Moscow to Pyongyang. The weekly train no. 20 (Moscow – Beijing) conveys direct sleeping cars Moscow – Pyongyang. They go via China and are detached from the main train at Shenyang, wait there for some hours and the continue with the Beijing – Pyongyang train. Departure from Moscow is every friday at 23:55, arrival at Pyongyang is one week later at 19:30. Distance is 8625 km, travel time 158h35min.<br />
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Train no. 2 with the sleeping car to Pyongyang stops at Irkutsk Passashirskiy station from 1:03 till 1:33 Moscow time, that's 6:03 – 6:33 local time. In Russia the railway everywhere uses Moscow time.<br />
We got up at 5:00 and went to the station with a pre-arranged taxi, as public transport only starts at around 6:00. It was still dark and cold, and few other cars were on the street.<br />
Our feelings where quite ambivalent at that time, as we now started an adventure with an uncertain end – will we succeed to enter North Korea via Tumangan or will there be problems? All we heard is that this route is not open for tourists…. so our plan was quite crazy (especially considering what kind of country North Korea is…) and out of the rules.<br />
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I can therefore not recommend trying to repeat what we did and I ask for your understanding that due to the special situation I can not here or via e-mail tell more details about our prior preparation and organization of the trip via Tumangan.<br />
But of course I will tell about what happened in Tumangan and on the further trip – the travelogue won't stop at Tumangan(Gr).<br />
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But now back to Irkutsk in the morning of the 15th September 2008: "Well, let's forget about the concerns and just go" that's what we thought and did at this time.<br />
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My tickets for this adventure:<br />
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Ticket+reservation Irkutsk – Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipO2m2LZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/O2m2LZ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyOtVfvjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/OtVfvj.jpg" /></a><br />
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Ticket+reservation from Khabarovsk to Pyongyang:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipPQeKScj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/PQeKSc.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pacqDeUHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/cqDeUH.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipnzFp6xj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/nzFp6x.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/jkjv.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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Oliver had the same for places 18 and 20, so we had a whole compartment for us (places 17, 18, 19 and 20).<br />
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We arrived at the station at about 5:55. Train 2 was announced to arrive 5 minutes late:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcKPqo8wj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/KPqo8w.jpg" /></a>
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There was still no platform indicated, so we waited. We already noticed some Korean people with much luggage.<br />
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After 5 minutes the platform was announced, so we and many other passengers went there. I knew that the Korean sleeping car is the 2nd last car of the train (the last is the through-car Moscow – Komsomolsk, which is detached from the main train at Khabarovsk), so we went to the Moscow-bound end of the platform.<br />
As I already once used this Korean sleeping car for a domestic trip inside Russia, I knew that it is mainly used for carrying various goods from Russia to North Korea. It is brought to the stations by Korean people temporarily living in Russia (for work).<br />
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The train finally came in the station and although it was still dark, the Korean sleeping car could be recognized from the distance, as it looks different from the Russian cars.<br />
After the train stopped and the conductors opened the door, the Korean people (there were about 5 of them) began to load their big, heavy cartons with unknown content. When we approached the door and wanted to show our tickets, the conductors, who were "guarding" our "entrance-door to North Korea", said only "zdes neljsa, zdes nelsja, drugoj vagon" (which means "here forbidden, here forbidden, other vagon"). They even didn't want to look at the ticket and didn't understand me (or didn't want to) when I said "my do Phenjana edim" (We are going to Pyongyang). I wanted to show the passport with the North Korean visa, but it seemed that they didn't want to have anything to do with us, the conductor only continued saying "drugoj, russkij vagon" and so on. Around us the Korean people were still loading stuff and looked at us strange backpackers…<br />
What to do now? Will our plan already fail in Irkutsk?<br />
At this moment a Russian conductor ("provodnik") from the Komsomolsk-bound sleeping car noticed that we had some problem and came to us. We explained him the situation.<br />
Then the following happened (you have to know, that the RZD-conductor was quite tall and wearing the authoritative-looking RZD-uniform): He shouted "Provodnik!" to the direction of the door of the Korean sleeping car and gave the man, who reacted, an unmistakable sign to come here. He then showed him the ticket and – without speaking any word – first pointed to the car and place number on the tickets, then on us and then towards the Korean sleeping car. Unbelievable!<br />
In the face of the Korean conductor we could notice his respect for the Russian conductors and he said only "khorosho, khorosho" – and let us in! Perfect, the first hurdle is done!<br />
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On the corridor of the sleeping car it was quite dark, cold and the air was smoky. Koreans were shifting cartons around and looking at us like at aliens. The conductor showed us our compartments and we put down our backpacks on the beds and left the car again.<br />
Oliver said goodbye to his girlfriend and she took a photo of us with the North Korean sleeping car:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9jNdAMmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/jNdAMm.jpg" /></a>
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We were joking that now the "Songun-era" (*) will begin for us ;-)<br />
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"Dear Leader Comrade Generalissimo Kim Jong Il's Songun politics are the lifeblood of the Korean people single mindedly united as one in harmonious steel-strong rock-hard heroic ranks of invincible mass-valour and undying loyalty for the Leader and a banner of perpetual victory over the cravenly cowardly criminal capitalist US imperialists, their satellites, henchmen, hirelings and servants.<br />
As long as Dear Leader Comrade Generalissimo Kim Jong Il the brilliant statesman, political genius, prodigious humanist, intellectual giant, prolific songwriter, superb theorician, and invincible military commander leads the Juche-based man-centered Korean-style socialist perfect system freely chosen by the Korean people in single-minded profound respect and admiration for Dear Leader and his invincible Songun politics, the criminal capitalist crooked contrived consumerist US imperialists will never defeat, stifle, or browbeat the great invincible prosperous powerful Democratic People's Republic of Korea into submission thanks to Dear Leader's invincible Songun politics that are the lifeblood of the Korean people.<br />
"
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Hmmm, let's see how the Songun-era really is…<br />
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The train departed on-time at 1:33 (6:33 local time). Apart from us, only one passenger boarded the sleeping-car in Irkutsk. The other Koreans were just bringing packages to the train…<br />
The North Korean sleeping car consists of 8 compartments, one of them is used by the conductors, so 28 places can be sold to passengers. That's the theory, in reality most compartments are filled with luggage.<br />
Please watch my video at <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1wMqNCeG0w">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1wMqNCeG0w</a> to get an idea about how it looks like inside the North Korean sleeping car. I've made the video on my trip from Moskva to Usole-Sibirskoye (within Russia) in december 2006.<br />
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It was cold inside our compartment – no heating, maybe 10 degrees. On the train which I took from Moscow to Novosibirsk, the provodniza told me, that the heating-period, during which the train is electrically heated with power from the locomotive has not yet begun. If it's cold outside this period, the cars are individually heated with a coal stove, which is located in every car (this also applies for trains hauled by diesel-locomotives, which can't provide electrical power for the heating).<br />
However, individual heating requires that coal is available – and this was not the case in our North Korean sleeping car…<br />
But no problem, we had warm clothes. However, I wonder why they can't just switch on the electric heating also outside the official heating period…<br />
However, the water-boiler was working, so preparing tea, coffee and instand-noodles was possible.<br />
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15 minutes after Irkutsk one of the conductors came to us to take the tickets and check our passports. Now he already made a friendlier impression.<br />
I think the conductors just couldn't imagine at all, that backpackers like we go to Pyongyang, hence their reaction when we wanted to get on...<br />
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About 1,5 hours after Irkutsk the Baikal-lake appears outside the train-window. The train goes down to Slyudyanka and then runs along the shore for more than 2 hours.<br />
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The corridor of the sleeping car:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjdDZFU3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/dDZFU3.jpg" /></a>
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Inside our compartment:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8yFuEKCj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/yFuEKC.jpg" /></a>
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We found out, that some windows on the corridor-side as well as the window in the toilet can be opened – good news regarding photos!<br />
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The mountains near Slyudyanka:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8tGJ5Rhj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/tGJ5Rh.jpg" /></a>
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A small village:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8fnzYRIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/fnzYRI.jpg" /></a>
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Station Vydrino:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0IBDFuIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/IBDFuI.jpg" /></a>
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The Baikal-lake:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exGnD0GKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/GnD0GK.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4ZLAFWZj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/ZLAFWZ.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idiFRwaMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/iFRwaM.jpg" /></a>
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After leaving the Baikal the train route follows the Selenga river up to Ulan-Ude, which it crosses about 30 minutes before reaching Ulan-Ude:<br />
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Selenga valley:<br />
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30 minutes stop at Ulan-Ude:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7aUDj2Mj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/aUDj2M.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exZnRBRUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ZnRBRU.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbxsEDT4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/xsEDT4.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eykNmBynj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/kNmByn.jpg" /></a>
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East of Ulan-Ude:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex9ptVMGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/9ptVMG.jpg" /></a>
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As it was quite cold, the passengers kept their compartment doors closed on the 1st half of the day. Now in the afternoon it was a little bit warmer (17 degrees according to the thermometer on the corridor) and one young North Korean passenger started talking with me (in Russian). He said that he was working as a construction worker at Nishniy Novgorod for one year. Now he returned to his family, he had a wife and one three-year-old son in Pyongyang. Of course he was also interested, for what reason we were going to Pyongyang.<br />
It was just small-talk as usual…<br />
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Apart from us, there were only 5 passengers in the sleeping car: The 1st compartment was the conductors compartment, the 2nd and 3rd were also used by the conductors to store luggage and to sleep. The 4th compartment was occupied by the man, who boarded at Irkutsk (the other three beds were full with luggage). The 5th compartment was ours. In the 6th compartments there were 4 passengers – one from Moscow, three from Nishniy Novgorod. The 7th and 8th compartment were again luggage-compartments…<br />
After Irkutsk the number of passengers (but not the quantity of luggage) remained unchanged till Pyongyang.<br />
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Somewhere east of Ulan-Ude there was a quite long section with three tracks:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipwTywHTj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/wTywHT.jpg" /></a>
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However, I don't understand, for what reason they've built a 3rd track exact here. The number of trains here is relatively low, and I think a 3rd track would make more sense between Omsk and Novosibirsk, where the train frequency is really high (on my way between Omsk and Novosibirsk I counted the passing freight trains between 9:53 and 10:27: 9:53, 9:55, 9:59, 10:03, 10:07, 10:10, 10:13, 10:15, 10:17, 10:27 – this line is really full with trains).<br />
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At Petrovskiy Zavod:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f06GE1Y5j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/6GE1Y5.jpg" /></a>
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This trip was also my first trip on the Transsiberian railway east of Ulan-Ude. And I was very impressed by the landscape here. The terrain is hilly and the area is even less populated than the more western parts of Russia. And the coulours of the autumn made it even more beautiful:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idLF5W9fj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/LF5W9f.jpg" /></a>
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I the late evening (18:14 – 18:39, 0:14 – 0:39) the train stopped at Chita. On the square in front of the station there is a nice church:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idE0H5qfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/E0H5qf.jpg" /></a>
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The station building:<br />
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On the platform:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idq4GUF1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/q4GUF1.jpg" /></a>
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The five conductors:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdKk7DDIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/Kk7DDI.jpg" /></a>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-16</span><br />
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Fortunately we had enough blankets in our compartment, so it was not too cold for sleeping. In the morning the temperature was 7 degrees on the corridor and maybe 5 degrees warmer in the compartment…<br />
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Landscape between Zilovo and Ksenyevskaya:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Ciu7gGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Ciu7gG.jpg" /></a>
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As I have noticed that the conductors have power outlets in their compartment, I asked them whether I could charge my electric shaver there. They were just having lunch and it was not only possible to use the outlet for my purpose, they also invited me to have lunch together with them in their compartment. Now they all were very friendly and I explained them our trip by drawing a world-map with the route from Vienna to Pyongyang. Of course – no such lunch without some Korean schnaps…<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idkiC6lyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/kiC6ly.jpg" /></a>
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The food was very tasty too: Meat, rice, soup, kimchi (see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimchi</a>), onion…<br />
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The service compartment next to their compartment was used as kitchen, there they had two cooking plates – with electric connections, which don't really comply with European safety regulations… ;-)<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlyIfk3Mj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/yIfk3M.jpg" /></a>
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Between Ksenyevskaya and Mogocha (video):<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL5zTgdG1-4">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL5zTgdG1-4</a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0XWploOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/XWploO.jpg" /></a>
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Approaching Mogocha (sheduled stop 4:40 – 4:55):<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip9vnn3Kj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/9vnn3K.jpg" /></a>
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Mogocha station:<br />
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VL-60 with victory day inscriptions:<br />
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Between Mogocha and Amazar (video with passing freigh train):<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AR1H8-9TVVU">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AR1H8-9TVVU</a><br />
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The next stop was at Amazar (9:26 – 9:46):<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f09qQUhWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/9qQUhW.jpg" /></a>
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Russian village life:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eygNOl4Ij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/gNOl4I.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exNrxRgzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/NrxRgz.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here we bought some delecious "vareniki" (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varenyky">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varenyky</a>) from the "babushka":<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p95Nt4ibj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/5Nt4ib.jpg" /></a><br />
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It seemed that here such private "shops" are forbidden on the platform (as it's usual at many other stations). No problem, then the "shops" are just located on the other side of the fence surrounding the platform…<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyK3hEOkj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/K3hEOk.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Amazar river:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id1k3Iwhj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/1k3Iwh.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Erofey Pavlovich (11:41 – 12:02):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0JbYcFNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/JbYcFN.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Barrier-free crossover...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7Cns2edj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/Cns2ed.jpg" /></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0JbYcFNj" target="_blank"></a>
<br />
<br />
EP1-309 with train no. 2 "Rossiya":<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5mfXBLUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/mfXBLU.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0VnYDuJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/VnYDuJ.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
West of Erofey-Pavlovich there are some serpentines:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj6ajK0Xj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/6ajK0X.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Google-Earth:<br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/91jc.jpg/" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8FbaMuvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/FbaMuv.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eymhJXEfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/mhJXEf.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4CtVSO3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/CtVSO3.jpg" /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdSWpNQkj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/SWpNQk.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Travelling in the North Korean sleeping car through such a vast landscape gives you already a cut-off-from-the-rest-of-the-world-feeling, alltough we where still in Russia…but already somehow isolated. It was really strange.<br />
<br />
Maybe to overcome this feeling we decided to visit the dining-car – just to ensure that the rest of the world still exists…<br />
The dining car was not – as usual – located in the middle of the train, but after the 1st sleeping car (totally the 4th car, behind the locomotice there were 3 luggage and/or post cars). So it was a relatively long walk. The Russian sleeping cars were all very modern and clean, the heating was working – also quite a contrast to our North Korean sleeping car. Of course we never had regrets, that we made this trip to North Korea and and an old sleeping car is also much more interesting than this modern stuff – but I think nevertheless you can understand the ambivalent feelings…<br />
<br />
The dining car was nice, the service was friendly, the menu also in english – the rest of the world still exists ;-)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4udzCcwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/udzCcw.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey7ZxBQnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/7ZxBQn.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<br />
First we were the only guests, but then some other guests came. They also were tourists from Europe.<br />
We talked with two of them, they were a couple from Switzerland, travelling to Habarovsk, then to Vladivostok and then by ship to Japan. They also did the whole trip from Switzerland by train, using the Basel-Moscow sleeping car. And we found out that the man was working at the Kanton Solothurn and was there responsible for organizing local public transport. So especially Oliver (he is a SBB-employee) had some interesting topics to discuss…<br />
<br />
Somewhen after passing Skovorodino we returned to our sleeping-car.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/skovorodino-khabarovsk.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-67563239659974013772008-09-14T11:42:00.000-07:002016-02-02T11:21:20.933-08:00Train across Siberia<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-12</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Unfortunately I have no photos of the 1st half of the day, as I lost them due to a mistake when copying files. However, as I have been to Barnaul some weeks ago during my trip to the solar eclipse in the Altaj mountains (see <a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a>), that's not a big problem.<br />
<br />
I spent the 1st half of the day with a walk in the quite pleasant center of Barnaul. My train to Novosibirsk was train 626 (Barnaul – Novosibirsk) which departed at 10: 47 (13:47 local time).<br />
<br />
Railway station Barnaul (photo from my previous trip)<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5yiEClFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/yiEClF.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Also for this trip I booked a place in a seating-car at http://ticket.rzd.ru:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9RXbbIpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/RXbbIp.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
There were only two Barnaul – Novosibirsk cars on this train, the rest of the train consisted of various through-cars like Biysk – Neryungri and so on…<br />
<br />
At Cherepanovo the two AC EP1 are replaced by a DC ChS2:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pa29M5D1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/29M5D1.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
On the other track train 301 Novosibirsk – Almaty (KTZ cars and two RZD through cars Novosibirsk – Leninogorsk):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exm0dkdHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/m0dkdH.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p3mmqj1Nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/903/mmqj1N.jpg" /></a><br />
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Seating car from outside:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pagK3IPcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/gK3IPc.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<br />
<br />
And from inside (at Novosibirsk, after all passengers already left it, it was indeed quite full):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcGYE8SEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/GYE8SE.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
The train arrived at Novosibirsk at 15:18.<br />
As I dind't get so much sleep last night, I asked for the "komnata otdykha" at Novosibirsk station to spend there a part of the waiting time till 20:07 (arrival of train 12 Chelyabinsk – Chita). But the "station-hotel" was closed for renovation. So I stored my luggage at the left-luggage and decided to make a walk around Novosibirsk.<br />
<br />
Waiting hall at Novosibirsk:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyaEZamDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/aEZamD.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
The impressive station from outside:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iddL237Uj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/dL237U.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
My walk around Novosibirsk:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5OEWVqUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/OEWVqU.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0iiXs6Tj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/iiXs6T.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
Lenin:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipqHK20jj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/qHK20j.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Also Novosibirsk is prepared for the Oktoberfest:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8Cc51Hwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/Cc51Hw.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Railway station by night:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1BFOMOLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/BFOMOL.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
EP2K with train no. 1 "Rossiya" (Vladivostok – Moskva):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idpLtyuWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/pLtyuW.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Train 6 (Moskva – Ulan-Bator) was interesting too: Most passengers were Mongolian traders, who sold clothes and other stuff during the stop. The compartments were quite full with their luggage. This "train market" as far as I know takes only place in the Mongolian train 6 (wednesday from Moscow), the Russian train no. 6 (thursday from Moscow) is therefore more recommended for tourists...<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idl3dw1Wj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/l3dw1W.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idnwrriSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/nwrriS.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eymoFfPFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/moFfPF.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idYOVVbij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/YOVVbi.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
As already mentioned, I continued my trip with train no. 12 (Chita – Chelyabinsk), which stops at Novosibirsk from 20:07 till 20:47 (23:07 till 23:47 local time):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id30KZ36j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/30KZ36.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The reservation for this trip:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pnEkiJPUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/EkiJPU.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Again
my place was in a men-compartment in a car was additional service. My
compartment was empty when I entered the train, but after 20 minutes
another man came. He was travelling from Novosibirsk to Krasnoyarsk on a
business-trip.<br />
<br />
As I was already very tired, I soon went to bed.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-13</span><br />
<br />
I woke up near Bogotol, still four hours before Krasnoyarsk. Nothing special to tell, the weather was still cold and cloudy…<br />
<br />
At Kransoyarsk my fellow passenger got off. Now I was alone in the compartment, which was a little bit boring…<br />
<br />
Krasnoyarsk station (8:56 – 9:16):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idnSEzEtj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/nSEzEt.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey3Ux1bDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/3Ux1bD.jpg" /></a><br />
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Crossing the Yennissey-river:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f03J5praj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/3J5pra.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
A video of the river crossing:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTDnKChdrv0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTDnKChdrv0</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Marshalling yard east of Krasnoyarsk:<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1CrbHSyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/CrbHSy.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idsIqxiOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/sIqxiO.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Nice landscape and villages between Krasnoyarsk and Uyar:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iddAI002j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/dAI002.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0HdfzJmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/HdfzJm.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Video:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP9FJXj-LTk">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP9FJXj-LTk</a><br />
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<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idBNEiAxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/BNEiAx.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idPTwfe0j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/PTwfe0.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
Typical Siberian "datchas":<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pdjVKL2Aj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/jVKL2A.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
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Siberia in autumn – a beautiful landscape!<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p7LUTM6Rj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/LUTM6R.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p58PE3LGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/8PE3LG.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
2TE10 with a special train for track-renewal works:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey1fK6sXj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/1fK6sX.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcOdjbCVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/OdjbCV.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p76UXgNKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/6UXgNK.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip114oT2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/114oT2.jpg" /></a><br />
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At Ilanskaya (13:45 – 14:05):<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipl2icZdj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/l2icZd.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f08WKQ9Dj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/8WKQ9D.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9etxqjAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/etxqjA.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id9uPW2cj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/9uPW2c.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exYq4HTcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/Yq4HTc.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyOSTSqWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/OSTSqW.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip2mirqEj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/2mirqE.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Device for sand-refueling:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p55pO6YMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/5pO6YM.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
VL-80 with a freight train:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0B4TN9Nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/B4TN9N.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Some more landscape photos:
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<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipT8OYZYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/T8OYZY.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyz5RVKJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/z5RVKJ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlD6SQINj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/D6SQIN.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idJ8XPL4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/J8XPL4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eygEaQn7j" target="_blank"></a><br />
<br />
The dinner served from the dining-car:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4w16POrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/w16POr.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
On this train only one hot meal was included in the ticket. However, for
lunch I could also order a hot meal from the dining car for 120 RUB,
which is quite cheap.<br />
<br />
The washbasin in the toilet:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/excluivMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/cluivM.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Toilet:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/plZFwMpQj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/921/ZFwMpQ.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Nowadays there are such warnings on all Russian trains<br />
<br /><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eygEaQn7j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/gEaQn7.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
They say, that the sockets can be used to charge mobile phones, but that
they were only designed for shavers and using them for other electric
devices like mobile phones can lead to damage, for which the the train
crew undertakes no responsibility.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-14</span><br />
<br />
In the morning at 2:13 (7:13 local time) I arrived at Usole-Sibirskoe:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0fU7Auaj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/fU7Aua.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
After buying a ticket for the express-elektrichka to Irkutsk in the
afternoon, I walked to the flat of my friends. They live close to the
station.<br />
<br />
On the way I noticed that appearently the tramway is now finally extended by about 500 meters to the railway station:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcVK7AZ0j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/VK7AZ0.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
That was a little, but very positive surprise for me, as Usole-Sibirskoe is not a big town, where much progress is happening…<br />
<br />
I stayed at my friends untill the afternoon. I have not seen them for
quite a long time and my trip to North Korea was a good opportunity to
meet again ;-)<br />
When walking back to the station together with them, I took another photo of the tramway construction works: <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyOiZw2Hj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/OiZw2H.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The ticket for the express-elektrichka (Usole 12:15(17:15) - Irkutsk 13:24(18:24)):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipHDG2bsj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/HDG2bs.jpg" /></a> <br />
The train arrived some minutes late and I got on. Alltough the ticket was issued via an Express-terminal (but at the "prigorodnaya kassa"), the
number of tickets per train seemed to be unlimited.
<br />
As it was sunday afternoon and many students returned to Irkutsk, the train was full and I had to stand till Angarsk.<br />
<br />
The express-elektrichka at Irkutsk Passashirskiy station:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0aOP0Ywj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/aOP0Yw.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
My friend Oliver and his girlfriend were already waiting for me. They arrived at Irkutsk they day before after already spending some time in Russia.<br />
We took the marshrutka no. 72 to reach the "Baikalhostel", where I left my luggage. Then we went by bus to downtown Irkutsk to have some dinner and returned to the hostel by taxi at around 23:30.
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/irkutsk-skovorodino.html"><span style="color: red; font-size: 180%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-18626618281967262462008-09-11T11:33:00.000-07:002016-02-02T10:54:05.356-08:00Leaving Moscow, leaving Europe<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-09</span><br />
<br />
At his flat Alexander gave me our tickets to Pyongyang. This time it was not possible to make a combination with the Slovakian Citystar-Ticket, as the ticketsellers at MZA refused to issue such a ticket (meaning a ticket only from Ussurijsk with an reservation from Irkutsk).<br />
Alexander told me about this fact before, but it was already too late to give the Citystar-Ticket back. But he said he can use my Citystar-ticket some of his clients travelling from Moscow to Siberia. So I used it till Moscow and sold it to him. In Bratislava I bought an additional Moskva – Irkutsk one-way-ticket for me.<br />
As we wanted to travel in our own compartment (we thought, that the only possibility to take photos inside North Korea is from inside the compartment without being watched by Koreans...), we bought four tickets for the trip to Pyongyang. We wanted to buy the additional two tickets only from Ussurijsk instead of Irkutsk, but that was not possible, as the Russian booking system does not know a reservation price for Ussurijsk – Pyongyang. So we bought two tickets + reservations Habarovsk – Pyongyang (and of course two tickets + reservations Irkutsk - Pyongyang). All that was not cheap, but how often in life one travels this interesing route? Money was not really a question this time...<br />
<br />
After breakfast, some talks and a shower we drove to Kazansky station. En-route we made a stop at the MZA-office to issue my tickets Novosibirsk – Barnaul – Novosibirsk, which I booked online via <a href="http://ticket.rzd.ru/">http://ticket.rzd.ru/</a>.<br />
At about 12:50 we arrived at Kazansky station and I boarded train no. 118 to Novokuznezk. As expected my reserved place was in a car with additional service (also called "ekonom-klass”). Due to some reservation-system problems at the time of buying the reservation, in Austria it was only possible to book places in male/female-compartments, but not in mixed compartments. And the male/female-compartments are usually in cars with additional services, where food is included in the price. The reservation price in the international fare is of course the same irrespective of the level of service.<br />
Of course my strange looking tickets and reservation issued in Slovakia/Austria surprised the conductors, but after I explained the tickets and showed a self-written paper with detailed explanations, they accepted my travel documents. After some time the crew of the dining car came again to ask me about my tickets. They wanted to know whether the food is included also in my ticket. I explained that the remark "mit Zuschlag” means "s uslugami" and that the food is included. According to the official rules this is not exactly true, but nobody really knows this rules...<br />
<br />
2nd class ticket Moskva - Irkutsk, bought in Slovakia during my stop at Bratislava main station two days before:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pmRxDC2jj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/RxDC2j.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Reservation Moskva - Novosibirsk, bought in Austria:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/poZ5X2LOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/924/Z5X2LO.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
I said goodbye to Alexander and punctually at 13:19 the train departed.<br />
My car (fortunately an unmodernized, typical Ammendorf-car) was not full, about 50% of the places were occupied at Moscow. "ekonom klass” is quite expensive in Russian domestic fare, so people usually prefer to travel in usual cars.<br />
In my compartment there was another man, he was travelling to Amsya, where the train arrived next day in the morning.<br />
<br />
The further train trip to Novosibirsk was not really spectacular. My car got quite empty during the 2nd day, and I had my own compartment after Amsya. Hot meals were served two times daily.<br />
<br />
At Moskva Kazanskaya station<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/par2Ji39j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/r2Ji39.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0RkoEIbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/RkoEIb.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
At Vekovka station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyoJbjAUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/oJbjAU.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/paqtJnwhj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/qtJnwh.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Train no. 76 Moskva - Tynda was running some minutes ahead of our train (no. 118, Moskva - Novokuznezk) between Moskva Kazanskaya (dep 13:11 and 13:18) and Sverdlovsk (arr. one day later at 17:09 and 17:17) , and so I often saw this trains at stations with longer stops...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exVLoky4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/VLoky4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exE6V5Adj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/E6V5Ad.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjYBvO6Oj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/YBvO6O.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Compared to the temperatures in Austria or en-route in Slovakia and Ukraine it was already really cold here in Russia at that time. Maybe 10 degrees, not more. Whereas on the day before in Ukraine I was happy about the working air-condition, now I was happy about the working heating ;-)<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-10</span><br />
<br />
At Amsya station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idfBqQYoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/fBqQYo.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
(the locomotives on the signs look rather familiar...)<br />
<br />
In the Ural mountains:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id0u6rDDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/0u6rDD.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Before reaching Druzhinino the two tracks of the railway line take different ways for about 20 km. It's more like two single-track lines.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjnvKggwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/nvKggw.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idj56MUlj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/j56MUl.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Here we met again the westbound track. It looks as they are double-tracking this line now, maybe it will also be used for eastbound trains in the future and the line, which is now used by eastbound trains, maybe will then be abandoned.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip2ggOcNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/2ggOcN.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idgzPBbUj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/gzPBbU.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Old and new single-track bridge<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p58un9TDj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/8un9TD.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
At Druzhinino:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcZGtRqFj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/ZGtRqF.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Again the train to Tynda with through car Moskva - Tommot:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idAtJJlVj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/AtJJlV.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyV0tupKj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/V0tupK.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exnXbIAoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/nXbIAo.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p15geNXwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/5geNXw.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Station Revda:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idiFcSKrj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/iFcSKr.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
Lake near Yekaterinburg:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p19yUzzfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/9yUzzf.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipzgWahzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/zgWahz.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyJsNZXYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/JsNZXY.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eybNAAprj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/bNAApr.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Arriving at Sverdlovsk Passashirsky (in 2008 the railway station still had the old name "Sverdlovsk" instead of "Yekaterinburg"):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipnAIxN9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/nAIxN9.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Much luggage is loaded in the Kazakh train to Almaty:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9VcEkbIj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/VcEkbI.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0Rmxqucj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Rmxquc.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Sleeping car Minsk - Almaty:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipsDSSdMj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/sDSSdM.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0SK81fpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/SK81fp.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Sunset east of Yekaterinburg:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip2NC4oNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/2NC4oN.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Night stop at Tyumen:<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exffomg1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ffomg1.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
2008-09-11<br />
<br />
Omsk station:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0vnemJcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/vnemJc.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idYfgtoGj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/YfgtoG.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eySjAGm4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/SjAGm4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Traffic light for pedestrians:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyCZ7fXAj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/CZ7fXA.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ip6kztnjj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/6kztnj.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4DQZvV4j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/DQZvV4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Train 54 Harkov - Vladivostok with through car Kiev - Vladivostok:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p8RutWFNj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/RutWFN.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Train 54 is an interesting train: The actual train is very short,
maybe 5 cars are running from Harkov (or points west thereof) to
Vladivostok. But during the ride additional cars are added
consequentlyto the head of the train: Penza - Vladivostok, Samara -
Vladivostok, Ufa - Vladivostok, Celyabinsk - Vladivostok etc. And on the
rear end of the train cars are consequently detached from the train:
Harkov - Novosibirsk, Harkov - Irkutsk, Harkov - Chita, etc.<br />
So
the train grows on the head and shrinks on the rear end and so the total
length of the train doesn't vary much. Don't ask me, why they don't run
only for example one Harkov - Vladivostok car instead of one Harkov -
Celyabinsk and one Celyabinsk - Vladivostok. The separation in
Celyabinsk can also be done virtually in the Express-system...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p94alcqxj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/4alcqx.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f034zMTmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/34zMTm.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The step of Barabinsk:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p4NGCkUPj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/904/NGCkUP.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
At Barabinsk:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyxduOwkj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/xduOwk.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Another ChS2 is coupled to train 118:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eX5_izEt0k">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eX5_izEt0k</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iptVXjTOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/tVXjTO.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
New EP2K-012 locomotive:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/id9BJe1zj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/9BJe1z.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcvCmUIpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/vCmUIp.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
At Ubinskaya train 118 is overtaken by train 54:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0uUgMNvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/uUgMNv.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
My compartment:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipu0arafj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/u0araf.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
At 16:39 the train arrived at Novosibirsk:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipAK9h96j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/AK9h96.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Moscow (16:49) and local time (19:49):<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey04nDRwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/04nDRw.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipZqabguj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Zqabgu.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hj8dANY5j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/8dANY5.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipZrekNfj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/ZrekNf.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
At 17:28 I continued with train 601 (Novosibirsk - Biysk) to Barnaul. The ticket Novosibirsk - Barnaul:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcwRkc4pj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/wRkc4p.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
I did the trip in a seating car. At 22:40 (1:40 local time) the train arrived at Barnaul and I went to the hotel near the station to get some sleep...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/barnaul-irkutsk.html"><span style="font-size: 180%;"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</span></span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span><br />
<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:<br />
<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:<br />
<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a><br />
<br />
<br />Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-10860374270774681872008-09-09T11:27:00.001-07:002020-10-04T12:24:07.804-07:00The 13.000 km train trip starts at Vienna<span style="color: red;">I wrote this travelogue primarily for some railway-related forums, so it contains many photos and information which might be boring for you, if you're not interested in railways that much.
</span>
<br />
<span style="color: red;">If you're interested especially in things concerning North Korea, you can skip some of the parts and go directly to:</span>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;"></span>
<span style="color: red;">The start of our trip with the North Korean train (still inside Russia):</span>
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/irkutsk-skovorodino.html">http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/irkutsk-skovorodino.html</a>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Approaching the border between Russia and North Korea (the last kilometers inside Russia):</span>
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/khabarovsk-khasan-border-russiadprk.html">http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/khabarovsk-khasan-border-russiadprk.html</a>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Inside North Korea:</span>
<br />
<a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/tumangan-north-korean-border-station.html">http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/tumangan-north-korean-border-station.html</a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-07</span>
<br />
<br />
The trip started at about 10:45 at the urban station Wien-Traisengasse(3 minutes walk from my flat), from where I took a “S-Bahn” to the Südbahnhof (Southern station). This first trip took only about 10-15 minutes.
<br />
<br />
Wien Traisengasse:<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyJrCC6ij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/JrCC6i.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipMd8Mc2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Md8Mc2.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
At 11:28 the local train to Bratislava departed from the Südbahnhof. It also conveyed a direct Ukrainian sleeping car from Wien to Kyiv, but as I was going further to Moscow, the Russian sleeping car Kosice – Moscow was more suitable for me.
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<br />
Wien Südbahnhof:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p1AqF4bHj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/AqF4bH.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idSeEehtj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/SeEeht.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlgdspuwj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<br />
The trip to Bratislava took about 70 minutes. I met an old man travelling to Chop. He was told that this train goes direct to Chop, but appearently he was not told that only the sleeping car goes there. The conductor – not knowing where Chop is located – thought that he was in the wrong train, but I explained them that everything is OK and that just several changes of trains (in Bratislava, Kosice and Cierna nad Tisou) are necessary to reach Chop.
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<br />
In Bratislava I had a 70-minutes layover. It is also possible to take a later train from Vienna to shorten the waiting time at Bratislava, but as I wanted to buy some cheap Slovakian train tickets for my friend in Moscow (tickets for domestic trips inside Russia can often be cheaper in Slovakia than in Russia…) such a layover was OK.
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The old man wanted to upgrade to the sleeping car, but the Ukrainian conductors told him, that there were no free places.
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As he was not seeing well and was a little bit confused, I helped him (when chanhig trains) on the further trip to reach Chop. He was glad about that and later he said that withouth my help he wouldn’t have reached Chop.
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<br />
From Bratislava my onward express train no. 609 to Kosice departed at 13:47. Train 609 consisted of about 10 Slovakian cars and the Ukrainian sleeping car. Some of the cars were already modernized with air-condition, but in my compartment-car the air-condition didn’t work so I (and the old man from Vienna) moved to a open-cabin-car with. BTW, the 83-year-old man told me, that he was born in Western Ukraine and had moved to Austria already 35 years ago. This was his first trip back to his homeland.
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<br />
En-route to Kosice:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlgdspuwj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/gdspuw.jpg" /></a> <br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exD0G1Lgj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjZlN1guj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/ZlN1gu.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9mjqwWnj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/mjqwWn.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
In Kosice the train arrived 5 minutes late at 19:55. The connecting local train to Cierna nad Tisou departed at 20:07. We changed to that train, to which also the Ukrainian sleeping car was attached. I boarded the Russian sleeping car to Moskva and also the old man bought an inofficial upgrade for this sleeping car to avoid a further change of trains at Cierna nad Tisou.
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At Kosice:
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/panW8Bzcj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/nW8Bzc.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0hhzoy3j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/hhzoy3.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/mhnx.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<br />
I had booked a place in a “Double”-compartment, as the 3-bed-configuration on Russian international sleeping cars is too narrow for longer trips like this. “Double” requires a 1st class ticket for the Ukrainian and Russian part, but instead of one 1st class ticket, I had a 2nd class Citystarticket for 2 persons, which after some explanation was also accpeted by the conductor. The other place in my compartment was not booked and I stayed the whole time alone till Moscow.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipoYronmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/oYronm.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exD0G1Lgj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/D0G1Lg.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
The sleeping car was a modernized RIC-WLABm of RZD. It was air-conditioned and there was a small refrigerator in each compartment (below the seat). Some windows on the corridor-side could be opened to take photos.
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Inside the compartment:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0cayCuzj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/cayCuz.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<br />
Arrival at Cierna was at 21:56 and there the 2 sleeping cars are attached to another local train, which goes just over the border to Chop.
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Shunting at Cierna nad Tisou:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0y61VSmj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/y61VSm.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9M6WGLvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/M6WGLv.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
The Slovakian border checks took place at a new checkpoint almost at the border (built with EU money), whereas the Ukranian border checks took place during the stop at the station Chop. Formalities at this boder are fast, easy and not worth mentioning compared to what we experienced on other border crossings during this trip. I sayed goodbye to the old man, who left the train here.
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Slovakian border checkpoint:<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0TMMrHbj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/TMMrHb.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/vefh.jpg/" target="_blank"></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlB0a2lYj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/B0a2lY.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
At Chop also the boogie exchanging procedure is done. It is done for the 2 sleeping cars coming from Slovakia as well as for some other sleeping cars of the “Tisza-Express” coming from Budapest. After that procedure all the sleeping cars from Wien, Kosice, Budapest, Beograd, Zagreb are rearranged and attached to a “domestic” train from Uzhgorod to Moskva. Departure from Chop was at 3:32 (East European time, one hour ahead of Central European time).
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Regauging at Chop:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hlB0a2lYj" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbpgobGvj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/pgobGv.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pabRl33Yj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/bRl33Y.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0qvkBWLj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/qvkBWL.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p9GKFCbSj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/GKFCbS.jpg" /></a> <br />
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Video:
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlPDbRBuv0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlPDbRBuv0</a>
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(due to darkness not much can be seen, but nerds might like the typical sounds during the regauging procedure...)
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<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-08</span>
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<br />
Train trip across Ukraine via Lviv – Ternopil – Hmelnizki – Vinniza – Kyiv. I already used this line several times (the last time was only 3 weeks ago), so it was already a little bit boring – the same procedure as every time…
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BTW, train 15/16 (“Tisza”) uses the Shmerinka avoiding curve. In Lviv and Kyiv sleeping cars were detached.
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At Lviv:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p5lWUXtTj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/lWUXtT.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbisiQCWj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/isiQCW.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipluEdkJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/luEdkJ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exnpPMC1j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/npPMC1.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipHV1OB6j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/HV1OB6.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pavgyNarj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/vgyNar.jpg" /></a><br />
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<b>
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/707/9v5x.jpg/" target="_blank"></a></b><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pcEFIGeij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/EFIGei.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0t2Mveoj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/t2Mveo.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pceBl6y8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/eBl6y8.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
15 minutes stop at Grechani:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pct009Naj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/t009Na.jpg" /></a> <br />
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At Hmelnizkij:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipD5J7w8j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/D5J7w8.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/2iks.jpg/" target="_blank"></a> <br />
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Near Shmerinka:<br />
<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/p10TKdfOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/0TKdfO.jpg" /></a> <br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/eyztCbh9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/ztCbh9.jpg" /></a><br />
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<img alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" border="0" src="http://imageshack.us/a/img51/9964/4qkk.jpg" width="800" />
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Arriving at Kyiv:
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/exJl8qYOj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/Jl8qYO.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/8xrs.jpg/" target="_blank"></a>
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<br />
In the evening the Ukrainian border checks took place at Konotop, still more than 100 km from the actual border to Russia.
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<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">2008-09-09</span>
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<br />
From Konotop the train ran non-stop to Brjansk, already more than 100 km inside Russia, where finally the Russian border checks take place at the uncivilizised time of 4 a.m. (Moscow time, one hour ahead of East European time). Apart from the horrible time, the border checks also here were no problem.
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After some more sleep I finally arrived at Moscow at about 10 a.m. at the Kievskaya station. My friend Alexander was waiting for me and we drove to his flat to have some breakfast together.
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Arriving at Moskva Kievskaya:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/iptZ4cUJj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/tZ4cUJ.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pbr9lydyj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/r9lydy.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0WBMX1Kj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/WBMX1K.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/idPSfOa9j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/PSfOa9.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/hjhD0LJ2j" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/hD0LJ2.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/pa4p437fj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/4p437f.jpg" /></a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 180%;"><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/moscow-barnaul.html" style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Continue</a>
<br />
<br />
</span>
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY OTHER TRIPS</span>
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<br />
<br />
Eurasia 2005: ~35.000 km by train from Europe via Ukraine, Russia and Mongolia to China and back to Europe via Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan:
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<a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/</a>
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<br />
Total solar eclipse 2008: Trip to the total solar eclipse in the Altay mountains (1st august 2008), including a 6-day trekking trip:
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<a href="http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/">http://zatmenie2008.blogspot.com/</a>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009900; font-weight: bold;">MY WEBSITE ABOUT CHEAP TICKETS FOR THE TRANSSIBERIAN RAILWAY</span>
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<br />
<a href="http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/">http://citystarticket.blogspot.com/</a>Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1916047723104242528.post-70769489567512939972008-09-06T13:39:00.000-07:002015-01-15T10:21:42.378-08:00How everything began....<span style="font-weight: bold;">ABOUT ME</span><br />
<br />
<br />
My name is Helmut and I was born in 1980 in Graz (Austria). Trains were my hobby since childhood. My 2nd hobby is travelling. During my trips I always combine those hobbies. I also like nature, mountains, hiking and so on.<br />
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My hobby is also my profession - since 2007 I work at the <a href="http://www.oebb.at/">Austrian Federal Railway</a><a href="http://www.oebb.at/">s</a>.<br />
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I had the idea to travel to North Korea by train already since some years. I especially like long, transcontinental train trips, and the idea to start such a trip at the next train station to my home and then reach a distant place only by using trains (or sometimes also other means of public ground/sea transportation).<br />
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During such train trips over thousands of kilometers I have the time to slowly adapt to another country, to another culture and mentaility - without the hassle of crowded airports, jet-lag and the discomfort of long-distance flights.<br />
I like the feeling of having a sleeper-train-compartment as my living- and bed-room for some days. It gives me a different sense of time and it is the perfect way to escape from the hectic everyday life. Time get's a new meaning.<br />
In our Western everyday life time is scarce. Time is luxury. And my trips for me represent some kind of luxury - the luxury of having time, whereas I'm not interested in the luxury of 5-star-hotels. A decent hostel is OK.<br />
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Of course just sitting on the train for days isn't enough. An interesting destination and some interesting intermediate stops are also necessary for a good trip.<br />
<br />
My preferred destinations are not the usual tourist hot spots. I like to go to places, which are not so well known.<br />
I'm especially interested in Eastern Europe and the countries of the former USSR. Also Asian countries raise my interest and I'm also planning trips to the Middle East.<br />
Of course I also have the idea to travel across the other continents by train somewhen in future, but right now there are still much places to discover on Eurasia.<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">THE IDEA - NORTH KOREA BY TRAIN</span><br />
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I don't know exactly when North Korea came into my mind for the 1st time. There are so many countries in the world, of which you only hear sometimes in the news or which you find on a map and don't have an idea what it is like. Usually you just don't think too much about it.<br />
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In 1998 I bought my 1st <a href="http://www.thomascookpublishing.com/series.htm?series=Timetables">Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable</a>, a comprehensive guide to rail services over the world.<br />
I only started to explore the internet at that time, so this timetable book (very much recommended) gave me a 1st overview about passenger train services all over the world. At that time I had only travelled by train to some Central/Western European countries, even the so close Eastern European countries were exotic to me at that time.<br />
I remember that I found the timetables for international trains for North Korea in that book. I was surprised to find out that even two different direct train services link Moscow and Pyongyang. One via China and one via the North Korean/Russian border at Tumangan. At that time I only knew that North Korea was a communist country, but I didn't further investigate on possibilities to go there.<br />
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During the following years I collected a lot of travel experience. Each trip leaded to more exotic destinations than the one before. In 1998 I interrailed across Western/Northern Europe, in 1999 I started to explore the former communist states like Poland.<br />
In 2001 I organized the 1st trip into the Former Soviet Union: Moscow, St. Petersburg and the Baltic states.<br />
With every trip the self confidence grew. In 2002 I travelled with the Transsiberian railway to Irkutsk and back - the 1st transcontinental train trip. 2005 was the year of a <a href="http://eurasia2005.blogspot.com/">3-months-trip</a> across Russia, Mongolia, China, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.<br />
<br />
At around this time my interest into North Korea grew. Im 2004 I read a <a href="http://groups.google.com/group/misc.transport.rail.europe/browse_thread/thread/c127ba911243286a/913a9d7ee1aa95bd?lnk=st&q&rnum=1&hl=de&pli=1">travelogue</a> of David Eerdmanns, who travelled by train from Europe to Pyongyang (via Beijing).<br />
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In 2005 I saw a documentary on TV about a special trip to North Korea for railway enthusiasts. The company "<a href="http://www.farrail.net/">Farrail</a>" sometimes organizes such trips for groups.<br />
Of course my interest into North Korea wasn't only rail-related, also the political situation and the isolated society drew my attention. I haven't been to the Soviet Union or to Eastern Europe prior the fall of the Iron Curtain at around 1990. It would have been very interesting to see these countries. But I was too late.<br />
North Korea still offers the possibility to see an isolated communist country. Of course as a tourist you only see what the government wants you to see, but nevertheless I thought that it must be an unique experience to go there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Then, in february 2006 I read this <a href="http://groups.google.com/group/misc.transport.rail.europe/browse_thread/thread/ac0d39d25981e4c2/ab80e93ec8f1f20e?lnk=st&q=&rnum=3&hl=de#ab80e93ec8f1f20e">fascinating post</a> by Roderick Smith at the usenet group misc.transport.rail.europe:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">The Pyongyang trip was 1993-94, marking the 10th anniversary of my trip via </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Mongolia. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">The North Korean visa could be ordered in advance from Australia, but had to </span><span style="font-style: italic;">be collected in Beijing (same as the Mongolian one 10 years earlier). </span><span style="font-style: italic;">The rules were: compulsory guide, at USD100 per day. This was rather </span><span style="font-style: italic;">expensive for a solo traveller; it would have been the same price for a </span><span style="font-style: italic;">group of four. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Leaving Beijing: Chinese train. I was in a cabin with three Mongolian </span><span style="font-style: italic;">businessmen bringing in huge quantities of consumer goods not available in </span><span style="font-style: italic;">their own country. They spoke English, and shared their crate of beer with </span><span style="font-style: italic;">me. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">The train ran hours late from the border. We arrived in Pyongyang in mid </span><span style="font-style: italic;">evening, too late for my promised visit to a railway workshop. The guide </span><span style="font-style: italic;">took me to a huge hotel, and stayed on for dinner. I seemed to be the only </span><span style="font-style: italic;">guest. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Next morning he collected me in a car with a driver. We followed some tram </span><span style="font-style: italic;">routes, then had a short metro ride (same style as Moskva, with ornate </span><span style="font-style: italic;">stations), then headed to the station for my departure (IIRC 10.30). </span><span style="font-style: italic;">My through carriage was attached to a long Korean train. Meals were brought </span><span style="font-style: italic;">to me in my compartment. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">This train also ran late. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Next day, the through car was detached from the train (at Tuman'gang?)and </span><span style="font-style: italic;">taken to the bogie-change yard, but too late to be changed that day. We </span><span style="font-style: italic;">spent the night in the yard. The explanation of this was given to me by the </span><span style="font-style: italic;">wife of an automative engineer from North Korea. His family was travelling </span><span style="font-style: italic;">to a Volvo factory in Sweden. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Next morning, the carriage had its bogies changed. Nobody stopped me from </span><span style="font-style: italic;">taking photos. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">The carriage was shunted to Hasan, with no connection to Russia that day. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">We spent 24 h there. I had USD to change: there was a food shop beside the </span><span style="font-style: italic;">station, and a wine shop in the station. The hot water samovar was no cold, </span><span style="font-style: italic;">and the carriage had no lighting. This was a dreary wait. </span><span style="font-style: italic;">We continued next day, and were attached to a 'Russia' 2 days later than the </span><span style="font-style: italic;">scheduled one. A couple of other carriages were attached at other stops </span><span style="font-style: italic;">during the first day. </span><br />
<div style="font-style: italic;">
About four years ago, the agent which handles my bookings to these countries<br />
told me that westerners can no longer use the Hasan crossing. I am not sure<br />
about the crossing for the Pyongyang - Manchuria - Moskva route.</div>
<span style="font-style: italic;">Regards, </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Roderick B Smith </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Rail News Victoria Editor </span><br />
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This message was fateful... it was the only information about the Tumangan-route on the internet I could find at that time. Since then the "Tumangan"-route was in some way engraved in my brain.<br />
I already found out before, that this route is served by a sleeping-wagon of the North Korean railways which only runs twice monthly. Also this fact makes it more interesting than the other Moscow-Pyongyang route via China, which is served by two Russian sleeping-wagons.<br />
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Two months later at a German railway forum <a href="http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?30,138804,138806#msg-138806">a discussion about the Khasan/Tumangan border area</a> (in German) started. Someone posted a question about how to get from Vladivostok to the border - just to have a look over to North Korea.<br />
<a href="http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?30,3113329,3113329#msg-3113329">Further discussion about the Tumangan-route</a> (in German) followed, but everyone reported that travel agencies said that this route is currently not offered for tourist trips.<br />
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In autumn 2006 decided to try a small experiment connected to this route: As I planned a trip to Siberia in winter, I thought: "Why not using this exotic sleeping-wagon of the North Korean railways for a domestic trip inside Russia?"<br />
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In 2006 no photos of this vehicle were available on the internet yet, so even the idea of being a passenger in it was quite attractive. It departs Moscow only twice monthly, but it was no problem to adapt my travel plan to it's timetable (dep. Moscow on the 11th and 25th of each month).<br />
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Of course this vagon is not intended for domestic trips inside Russia and tickets are only sold for international trips.<br />
Alexander, a friend of mine in Moscow, whom I know since my 2005 Eurasia trip and who works at a railway ticket agency, bought me a ticket to the 1st station in North Korea. To Tumangan!!!<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0M1PnYoj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ey1LdVuij" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/1LdVui.jpg" /></a><br />
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My plan was to get off already somewhere near Irkutsk (5000 km east of Moscow, still more than 4000 km away from the North Korean border).<br />
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Departure from Moscow was on the 25th december 2006. I arrived in Moscow in the morning of the same day, after having spent Christmas evening on the Budapest - Moscow train.<br />
My friend brought me to the station by car and due to a traffic jam I nearly missed my train with the North Korean wagon. We arrived only 10 minutes before departure.<br />
Hint: If you need to be somewhere in Moscow at a certain time - forget about the car, use the metro!<br />
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The North Korean conductors were quite surprised about a passenger from Europe, but they let me in. I explained that I only go to Irkutsk.<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0M1PnYoj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0ko8OSlj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/ko8OSl.jpg" /></a><br />
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I then spent 4 days in the North Korean sleeping car. For the 1st 24 hours I had my own compartment, but at Yekaterinburg three North Korean men, who worked in Russia and travelled back home, and their enormous quantities of luggage occupied the other three places in the 4-bed-compartment.<br />
We had a good and interesting time together, for me it was exciting to communicate with North Koreans (they spoke a little bit Russian) and for them it was also interesting to talk to a Westerner. We had a friendly relationsship and also shared a bottle of Austrian schnapps together... so, North Korean people are also just ordinary people as everyone in the world.<br />
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Some more impressions of that trip:<br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/f0M1PnYoj" target="_blank"></a><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipLphk6Nj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/Lphk6N.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipEUm4Fpj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/EUm4Fp.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ex8Dqjksj" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/8Dqjks.jpg" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/jl50.jpg/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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A short video from inside the Korean carriage:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1wMqNCeG0w">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1wMqNCeG0w</a><br />
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After this trip the next aim was clear: Going with this wagon over the border to North Korea!!! This was just the logical consequence.<br />
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But there was still the obstacle, that this route was officially closed for tourists. Travel agencies continued to claim that this routes doesn't exist and the train had been cancelled. I knew that that was wrong, as the Russian train timetable website <a href="http://train.mza.ru/">http://train.mza.ru/</a> showed the sleeping wagon Moscow - Pyongyang via Tumangan and also showed real-time place availability for departure dates within the 44-days-booking period. Another story told by travel agencies was, that this route is too unrealiable due to power-failures inside North Korea and that nobody could say how many days late the train actually would arrive in Pyongyang.<br />
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On the German "Drehscheibe"-Forum <a href="http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?30,3424479,3424479#msg-3424479">discussions about possibilities to enter at Tumangan </a>continued in august 2007.<br />
A result of this discussions was, that Tumangan is by default listed on every North Korean visa, despite the fact that KITC doesn't offer this route to tourists.<br />
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This was an important information. At least it is not totally illegal to enter at Tumangan...<br />
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Together with Oliver, a good friend of mine working at the Swiss railways, I further discussed the possibilities to try a trip via Tumangan somewhen in 2008.<br />
So if Tumangan is listed on the visa - it could be possible to just book an ordinary trip to North Korea via Sinujiu but then in reality arrive via Tumangan.... hmmmm<br />
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We both had time for such a trip in september 2008. The decision to actually make the trip to North Korea was done in spring 2008, but the final decision over the route (via Tumangan or not) was postponed. As you can imagine, it was not easy to decide whether we should take the risks of such a trip....<br />
Of course the idea of a potential routing of our trip via Tumangan was top-secret, only people whom we knew very well were introduced.<br />
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We booked an individual DPRK-trip with a travel agency specialized on North Korea. Of course we told them that we would go via Sinujiu...<br />
Some weeks after I booked and payed the trip and submitted all data for the further processing, I got a call by a friendly employee of the North Korean embassy in Vienna. He said me, that I could pick up my visa now.<br />
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I went to the embassy (here you can see the building in a quiet residence area in Vienna: <a class="0" href="http://www.buergmann.net/penzing/suchen.php?suchtext=zichy">http://www.buergmann.net/penzing/suchen.php?suchtext=zichy</a>) with my passport and rang at the door. A Korean man in jogging clothes and slippers let me in, I gave him the passport, the visa application form with a passport-photo and the 10 EUR visa fee.<br />
Inside the building there were the typical pictures of the two Kims and so on. The man disappeared with the stuff I gave him, came back 5 minutes later, gave me the passport with the visa inside, guided me back to the door and wished my a nice trip.<br />
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That was it. 5 minutes. No questions, no bureacratic nightmare (as written on <a class="0" href="http://wikitravel.org/en/North_Korea#Get_in">http://wikitravel.org/en/North_Korea#Get_in</a>) at all!<br />
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<span style="font-size: 180%;"><a href="http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/09/vienna-moscow.html"><span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Tumangan, we are coming!!!</span></a></span><span style="font-size: 180%;"></span>
Helmuthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06734606632906556425noreply@blogger.com